Olympus C7070 wide zoom digital camera resource
Will you help me ?
I can't have my eyes everywhere and if you are aware of any information
specific to the Olympus 7070 which isn't yet available here, or if
you'd like to leave your own user report, you can send it to me here.
a notice in the message box below (leave name and email adress if
you'd like me to reply to you):
Note: if you have questions about the Olympus 7070, please put them in
7070 users group.
data and reference manuals
- See the 7070
samples at Pbase
- Full size samples available at Imaging
- See the samples
gallery with full-size samples at Steve's digicams site
- See the samples gallery of DCResource, with full-size
samples of the Olympus 7070
Comment: low noise (surprising,
since the sensor is small) but inaccurate white balance in the daylight
shots and too low saturation. For the best results you will either need
to shoot RAW or boost saturation levels, reduce contrast a bit and find
the right white balance setting.
RAW file format
- Google's Picasa image
processing software now can handle 7070 RAW files.
("There's an upgrade to Picasa
available from this month (October) that handles Raw files from the
C-7070 with ease. Obviously, it doesn't do so in such a sophisticated
way as more complex products, such as Photoshop or RawShooter, but it's
good enough for the casual user.")
- Give a try to Silkypix's
Developer Studio RAW converter.
Not free, but it is getting very good feedback from those who are using
it. It seems to be THE raw converter with virtually any control you can
imagine. Some feedback from Jerry Beggs:
- "I have tried the Silkypics
converter - it is the best I've found and importantly, it runs on old
pc's; I use Windows ME on a PIII 800 processor with 256mb RAM. It
works perfectly and is fast enough. Many of the new RAW
like Pixmantecs Rawshooter Essentials and Phase One's Capture will not
run on less than 500mb RAM and Windows XP. "
- To convert 7070 RAW images using Photoshop you will need CS2 with
RAW 3.1 plugin (CS won't do it). But you can also buy the cheaper
Adobe Elements 3, which also supports the plugin.
- Give a try to the RAW converter
from Pixmantec (RawShooter Essentials - free so far), which has
received very positive reviews.
- Another RAW converter is Phase One's Capture One LE which allows
saving the file as a 16-bit TIF. This allows saving the full range and
tuning a high contrast image in CS preserving detail at both ends of
- With the Camedia Master that comes with
the 7070 you can browse, open, and save the 7070 .ORF RAW file as an
TIFF (8 bit). You can set saturation, contrast and sharpening The ExifReader
software is able to open the TIFF and read the Exif header.
- Another Free program that can view RAW is Picasa2 available from www.picasa.com (not
sure it supports yet Olympus 7070 RAW files).
- More links to information on RAW format:
- Accoriding to our card write speed
test, the 7070 tops out at 1.7-1.8MB/s, even with the fastest memory
cards. While this is a welcome improvement over the predecessor (the
5060), it is still far less than what modern memory cards are capable
of (10 MB/s)
- See here for an official
compatibility chart from Olympus showing which memory are
compatible with the 7070.
- See here for CompactFlash
and Microdrive compatible with C-7070 Wide Zoom. This table shows
which CF card types have been tested for compatibility with the 7070.
Note: of course there are lots of CF card brands and types which are
compatible with the 7070 and are not listed there.
- Sept. 3rd: Olympus releases a new
firmware for the 7070 (v1.1):
- Changes: "Printing pictures with the date via a PictBridge
connection has been improved."
- Since the Olympus 7070 is a new product, firmware updates are
obviously not yet available. But once they will be available, they can
be downloaded from this page of the Olympus
aberrations / Purple fringing
- To remove chromatic aberrations with
an image editor:
- It is very simple to remove chromatic
aberrations from an image. Simply use a photo editor and set the
level of magenta (also green where this makes sense) to the minimum. In
some images you might have to set the saturation level of red to the
It might also make sense to limit the processing to the affected area
select the affected image area and only process that).
- Also see "How to deal with chromatic
aberrations" by Philipp Sanke. Philipp describes a number of ways
to avoid or remove chromatic aberrations.
filter and other filters
- See this thread
in the 7070 users group (note: first sign up with Yahoo). Here follows
- According to info on the web (very limited!!!)
CLA-7 has bayonet mount, there's not a word about threaded mount.
Unfortunately (according to the
Olympus CZ answer) CLA-5 doesn't work with 7070WZ. So I thought that a
be a 40.5-55mm step-up ring, but I didn't find any, all very only from
40.5 to max 49mm.
- Olympus released a
protective filter, UV filter, and a polarizer filter for the 7070. Go
the bottom of this page.
- A polariser filter helps to obtain deep
blue skies and to remove unwanted reflections. Consider the following
(both images taken with the polariser filter):
Perhentian island image
Same image with polariser rotated
by 90 degrees
- See the difference ? In the picture
to the right, the polariser filter substantially reduced the amount of
light reflected by the water surface making the sea ground more visible
and made the sky more dark.
- Polariser filters are also useful when
the lower part of the image is dark and the top (the sky) too bright.
- Have a look at Darwin
Wigget's page on filters for further information on polariser,
blue-yellow polariser, graduated neutral density and other filters
- See also Jeremy
McCreary's page on filters
- See this (Japanese) site
with good pictures of the coming accesories to the C5060WZ. Since the
7070 has essentially the same body and lens, the same accessories can
be used with the 7070.
- Interesting to see is the lens tube
CLA-7 featuring a bayonet connection to the TCON-17C and WCON-07C
- Also a "power battery holder" B-HLD20,
which looks like it will integrate with the camera body, looks
for those who need a lot of juice during a long days shooting.
- There are polarizing and UV filters
(supposedly) shown as well but with a filter diameter of 40.5 mm.
- Also the other goodies for under water
photography and carrying the camera are displayed with nice large
if you click on the thumbnails.
- Here is the official Japanese accessories
- The B-HLD20 battery holder is also having
a portrait shutter button. A close-up view can be found here.
BLM-1 battery and cheaper 3rd party alternatives
- See this
which contains an overview of currently available BLM-1 battery clones:
Olympus BLM-1 (original), PS-BLM1 (7DayShop.com), WT-BLM1
(SterlingTek.com), Energizer OM-1, Hahnel HL-M1, UNiROSS VB104295,
WinTop PS-BLM1 and e-Film (Delkin) BLM1. The author rates the batteries
according to construction, capacity, (low voltage) protection and cost.
It appears that not all 3rd party alternatives are created equal.
added which shows which capacity the original Olympus BLM-1 battery and
cheap 3rd party alternatives have. With the batteries I had (one
original and two 3rd party ones) I measured the following:
- Original Olympus battery: 1299 mAh
- 3rd party battery 1: 1077
- 3rd party battery 2: 744
- This is OK, since
the Olympus original BLM-1 battery costs 17 times more than the 3rd party
alternatives I bought.
- The complete test results
are available here.
- The original BLM-1 battery from Olympus is very expensive,
selling at prices of 70 Euro upwards (a Dutch user even reported that
the BLM-1 costs 119 Euro in the Netherlands) - a multiple of what a
NiMH battery set costs. Since February 2004 cheap 3rd party
alternatives to the BLM-1 battery are available from a number of
sources (mainly sellers on ebay - do a search for "BLM-1" on ebay).
- The questions then are
- how good these cheaper alternatives are and
- whether they can they be used without problems in the Olympus
- The original BLM-1 battery from Olympus is rated at 7.2 Volt and
1500 mAh. The alternatives have voltages of 7.2 or 7.4 Volt and
capacities of 1300 or 1500 mAh.
- The voltage difference is no problem:
- The 7.2 Volt which Olympus officially quotes varies in reality
between 6.7 Volt (discharged battery) and 7.7 Volt (fully charged
battery). These are voltages measured under a pretty heavy load of over
1 Ampere (battery loaded with a 6.8 Ohm resistor).
- With no load the measured voltages become 7.37 Volt in a
discharged state (emtpy battery screen showing) and 8.2 Volt (battery
=> In other words, it's highly
irrelevant if the battery is rated at 7.2 or 7.4 Volt - the camera can
withstand 7.7 Volts without problems.
- The capacity difference is also something not to worry about.
There is no big difference between 1500 and 1300 mAh (we are talking of
a 10% difference), but the 3rd party battery costs a fraction of the
- Personally I bought two 3rd party BLM-1 batteries in August 2004
from a Hong Kong eBay seller.
- Price per battery was US $ 5.49 and the total cost including
shipping was US $17.
- The batteries arrived in 10 days to my home in Germany.
- I tested one of these cheap "counterfeit" batteries. It lasted
for over 600 shots (SHQ, all with the LCD on, about 10% with flash) and
still had juice left when I got tired and interrupted the test. It just
fast battery charger (this has been reported by Rod in the Olympus 7070
- My results are the Oly charger took
around 5 hours to get to a full charge and the Vidpro about half that
(which is what they advertise). BUT, it could be the second battery I
charged on the Vidpro didn't need that much charging - what I did
wasn't under very controlled conditions re residual charge before
- The Vidpro (US $30) charger
base is a little larger than the Oly, and also has an AC to DC module
(a little smaller than the Oly unit itself) that plugs into the AC wall
socket whereas the Oly unit accepts AC directly with the supplied AC
cord. Both the Oly & Vidpro accept 100v-240v, but the big
difference I like is that the Vidpro has a 12v DC (vehicle, etc.)
adapter allowing the batteries to be charged in the field.
Comments ? Put them in the Olympus
7070 user group
photography with the Olympus 7070
- Under development
- The site Infrared
photography with your digital camera contains interesting
about infrared photography with Olympus cameras and an overview of
filters with their spectral characteristics.
- These sites contain useful information about infrared photography
with digital cameras:
Digital infrared photography - site devoted to digital infrared
photography with image galleries, information about filters and
equipment and links.
Infrared Photography page
- excellent information resource devoted to infrared photography with
Olympus cameras. Information about infrared filters, exposure settings,
focus, post-processing, sample images and links.
- Also see the Infrared
photography page of the Apogee magazine: this is an interesting
general introduction to infrared photography with digital cameras.
- TCON-30C - Tele Conversion Lens with
- 3x teleconverter, which got good reviews (good sharpness)
- The adapter CLA-7 is required.
- See the Olympus
site for a complete description
- Olympus TCON 17
- Brief description:
Oly TCON 17, Soligor adapter + 52->55 step-up ring
Picture quality: no
visible drop in quality, I didn't check it pixel by pixel
Image sharpness: no
visible drop in sharpness
Level of chromatic
aberration (if the lens increases it): not increased
only at tele position, vigneting approx on 3/4 of range
fine - apart from the rear thread... it seams not to be as durable as
it should, I plan to buy additional 52->55 step-up to keep it on all
- MCON-40 close up unit
- I have acquired an Olympus MCON-40 close-up unit, a 55mm thread
fit close-up achromat lens with two elements, with somewhat better
optical quality than the traditional single element types. This unit is
a rebadged version of the B-Macro unit for Olympus iS-series bridge
(film) cameras, and is compatible with any camera that has 55mm thread
fit lens or adapter. Olympus Europe has a page showing the models that
are compatible, though I don't have the address available right now.
- Mr Wrotniak review the WCON-07C and TCON-17C auxiliary lenses
with the Olympus 5060. See his detailed
report. This should also apply to the Olympus 7070.
- Olympus has released the TCON-17C teleconverter
lens and the WCON-07C wide angle converter lens for usage with the
Some pictures of these lenses here.
- Some interesting links:
- Under construction
- See Michael Meissner's excellent page
Flash Support. It contains an overview of external flash units
can be used with the 5050 (as well as with other Olympus digital
the Olympus 7070 with a computer
- Try these software
- Thanks to Peter Huebner for reporting
that Pine Tree Camera
Controller works with the 5050 (and possibly also with the 7070):
- "I installed the Pinetree Camera Controller
on my PC. Open Media door on the camera, turn on, press OK/Menu button
and LCD display button simultaneously for a few seconds, a menu pops up
the LCD screen - put camera in to control mode. Close Media door, plug
in USB cable and fire up the software (the software won't work if the
is not in control mode!). First time round the software asks you to
the camera, they then engage in a lengthy dialogue (I felt quite left
and then it simply works! I found the software had set my camera to
like 640x400 resolution - and the next time I went to use it in the
it was still in that resolution, and I didn't notice until later!
- Also see "How to
put the camera into PC control mode"
- Cam2Com: see this information.
- Akond.net sell the inPhoto
software for camera control. It's not free, but you might give it a try.
- There are several portable HDD solutions nowadays, and this list
most likely is not up to date anymore. Anyway:
- Consider the Vosonic
X's Drive 2. Without HD (I had one already) the price was below 100
Euro. This thing comes with a fast USB2 interface and will read
CF I and II, Memory sticks and SD/MMC cards. As far as I know this
storage device is currently the lowest cost device available. Quality
performance are good.
- Update 09.06.03: new portable storage
devices (do a Google search to find the manufacturers' sites):
- the Archos Multimedia Jukebox w/photo
attachment 20 gb - also plays mp3s. Costs more.
- SuperDigibin - includes ac charger /
car charger - 30 gb
- Disc Steno - burn cds from flash card
Vizor - burns cds from flash cards, spans discs for large cards,
- Tripper - similar to digibin
- Flashtrax from smartdisk (not out yet)
- 2.5 inch lcd, plays mp3s, image playback on device, costs more.
DigiMagic: burns CDs directly from the memory card (but how do you
know that the burning process was successful? ...)
- Other portable storage devices:
Wallet - a portable HD with a card reader with 3 - 20 GB capacity
- a portable HD with a card reader with up to 40 GB capacity
- same as Digital Wallet, ImageTank etc. but has a small colour LCD
to view the pictures - up to 20 GB capacity
Image Tank review has a comparison of these different
Comments ? Put them in the Olympus
7070 user group
- Ikelite have a housing for the
7070. This housing can also be used with the Olympus 5060.
- Olympus has released the PT-027,
a new case for underwater photography with the 7070. Here are the major
- Waterproof up to a water pressure
equivalent to 40 m depth
- All camera functions can be
- Detachable LCD hood for LCD monitor
- Neutral buoyancy under water
- Screw mount for converter lenses
and filters provided
- Internal flash can be used
underwater to trigger digital compatible slave
- Standard tripod socket permits
attachment of lighting tray
- Interchangeable lens port: allows
use of Olympus wide conversion lens with optional wide port PPO-02
- TTL flash connector allows
optional use of Olympus FL-20 TTL flash in PFL-01 flash housing
- Interesting forum for underwater photography: DigitalDiver.net
- Convar's PC
Inspector Smart Recovery tool now supports JPEG, TIFF and RAW.
- highly recommended. Note: it doesn't support yet 7070 RAWs.
- Check this site: Digital
Christian Grau has some software
tools to fix damaged memory cards. The software used to be free, now
also has a software tool (Photorescue) for repairing damaged memory
although it's not free.
- Also have a look at PC Inspector's File
Recovery. It's free.
by Kurt Stege, is a free tool to recover deleted images from a memory
- HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
is another tool. Price is $39.95.
- The picture files of the Olympus 7070
contain the complete exposure information (aperture, exposure time,
length, white balance and so on).
- This data is usually lost when you edit
the pictures; but some modern image editing software packages keep the
data intact when saving the processed intact.
- To read this data you can use these
by Ryuuji Yoshimoto. Haven't tried the software myself, but it looks
Image Viewer, by Michal Kowalski. This is the one I'm using.
from his homepage:
"EXIF viewer is a simple image
viewer application for photos taken with digital cameras. It's capable
of reading EXIF information embedded in photos as well as little
Because small thumbnail is already present in most photos displaying it
is really fast.
EXIF viewer can also provide
detailed information about photos (shutter speed, aperture, etc.) and
list them for comparison purposes.
EXIF viewer also displays image
histogram. It also features copying/moving and deleting of selected
Single photograph can be displayed in separate window or in a full
by Friedemann Schmidt. I'm using this one too. It can rewrite EXIF data
to images which lost it due to processing with a software package which
doesn't support EXIF. Quoting from his site:
"Exifer is a nearly free software
(you only should send me a postcard if you're using Exifer frequently)
with which you can manage the metadata (EXIF/IPTC) of pictures taken by
digital cameras. Because many image processing software destroys this
when saving such files, the idea was to create a backup of the metadata
before editing it in any software, and then, after that to restore it
into the processed file. With Exifer you can do this very easily. "
- Tobias Reif managed
to connect a 5060 to a computer using Linux. This information should
also apply to the 7070:
||here are the
steps (I'm on Suse 9.0 ):
1. boot Suse
$ sudo tail
* use external
-> "USB" must be set to "PC" (not "PRINT")
* set playback
mode on cam
* make sure
camera is turned off
with USB cable
2. turn camera
* drive icon
appears on desktop: sda1
-> properties: device /dev/sda1 mounted at /media/sda1)
on it would mount the cam and open it in Konqueror
=> convenient thumbnail previews)
-f for USB stuff)
... or just
wait a moment
4. get the
$ mount | grep
$ mount /media/sda1
$ mount |
on /media/sda1 type vfat (rw,nosuid,nodev,sync,user=tobi)
$ cd /media/sda1/dcim/100olymp/
$ cp -i ./*
$ mv -i ./*
$ umount /media/sda1
$ mount |
turn cam off
- Brian Miller created a page about using
C-5050Zoom Digital Camera with Linux. Tons of detailed information
on how to interface the 5050 with Linux.
- The page Using
the Olympus Camedia C-3040 Zoom Digital Camera with Linux and USB
Micheal Schubart contains a description on how to download photos from
an Olympus 3040 to a computer running Linux with USB. The procedure
there should also apply to an Olympus 5050.
with the Olympus 7070
- Astrophotography users's group here
may be also a good source.
- And last but not least this
site has enough links and information to keep you plugged for
What follows is a list of FAQs (frequently asked questions) compiled by
Jens Birch, based on questions asked in the Olympus 7070
Q: Can I use a linear polarizer with my camera?
A: Yes. You can use either linear or circular polarizers. Circular ones
are needed for most autofocus SLR cameras (not the Olympus E-10 and
Q: How can I avoid the annoying beeping sound when turning ON by
A: Turn mode dial to GREEN ARROW...it works every time! You can also
use a sufficiently long lens tube (does not work for the 8080 without
Q: How can I obtain exposure times longer than 4 seconds (1/2 second
for the C8080) or shorter than 1/1000 second?
A: You must have the camera in manual (M) mode. On the C7070, you can
use exposure times up to 120 sec. by using the "Bulb" mode.
Q:How can I speed up the time it takes for the camera to take the
picture after I press the shutter button?
A: There are many things you can do:
- You can be prepared beforehand by 1/2-pressing the shutter button
(and keeping it 1/2-pressed) while aiming at the subject before the
actual moment when you want to take the picture. The autofocus (AF) and
the aperture will be set and the camera will then take the picture with
no time lag when you press the last 1/2-way.
- By having the LCD switched on, the time to activate the cameras
AF and metering will be reduced by about 2 seconds.
- Set the camera to manual focus (MF) at the subject distance you
intend to take the picture at. This is most easily done by aiming at an
object at the distance you want to use and 1/2-pressing the shutter
button. While keeping it 1/2-pressed, press the AF/Macro/MF button.
That fixes the focus at the desired distance and the camera is set to
MF. This will significantly reduce the shutter lag.
- Set the camera to manual exposure (M) which further reduces the
- When it is tricky to catch the moment, use Hi-drive sequential
shooting and start taking pictures just before you think the action
starts. Use the optical viewfinder in order to follow the action when
the camera's LCD is occupied while taking the pictures.
- Turn off the "REC-view in the "SETUP" tab in the "Mode Menu".
That will minimize the time that the just taken picture is displayed
and you will be ready for the next shot as soon as possible.
- Use fully charged batteries if you are using the on-board flash.
Otherwise it takes a long time to re-charge.
Q: How can I stop the camera from entering sleep mode after 3 minutes?
A: Plug in an external DC power unit or a battery pack. You can also
excercise the zoom a little now and then with the remote control.
Q: How do I copy between cards in the camera?
A: Change the Camera to Playback Mode, press OK, press right, go to the
Edit menu, press right, go to the Copy button, press right, select
"All" if you want to copy all otherwise go to "Select" to copy single
pictures. Press OK when you want to copy.
Q: How do I switch between the xD and the CF cards when transferring
the images from the camera?
A: The camera uses the card that was selected when it was connected to
the USB port. To switch card, you must 1) prepare your computer to
safely disconnect the USB drive (camera). 2) pull the USB cable from
the camera, 3) press once at the CF/xD button to select the other card,
4) reconnect the camera.
Q: How do I tell what firmware version I have?
A: One way of doing it is to open a picture in a text editor such as
Notepad, and search for the string "v756". The number of the firmware
version follows right after that; for example, v756-81 means you have
version 81. A second method is, when viewing an unedited image in
Windows XP, right click on on the image, then click on properties, then
metadata, and it should be listed. A third method is to run the
firmware update utility but do not update and it will tell your your
firmware version in the camera.
Q: How do I use a polarizing filter to best effect?
A: The LCD normally compensates for the brightness of the scene which
makes the effect hard to see. To see the effect on the LCD you must
circumvent that compensation by locking the automatic exposure
temporarily. You can do that in two ways, either by pressing the AEL
button once or by keeping the shutter button 1/2-pressed. Now, while
the exposure is locked, rotate the filter and observe the effect on the
LCD screen, when you are satisfied with the effect you must press AEL
again or release the 1/2 half pressed shutter button in order to
re-activate the exposure meter (to get a correctly exposed picture). If
your polarizing filter feature a little knob or a white dot, you can
get maximal effect without looking at the LCD by rotating the filter
until the knob/dot points towards the direction where the sun is on the
sky (as good as you can). This is useful in sunny days when viewing the
LCD is difficult.
Q: How to RESET my camera?
A: A "soft" reset to factory default shooting settings, but without
changing date and file-numbering, is done either by simultaneously
pressing the "self-timer" and "custom" buttons or by setting the "All
Reset" to ON in SETUP in MODE MENU and then restarting the camera.
There is also a "hard" reset which basically restarts the "firmware"
(the program that runs the camera) and wipes out the on-board memory.
NOTE: This reset is intended for technicians to use. This is done by:
putting the camera in M mode, opening the memory door, turning the
camera on and then hold the "OK" and "Quickview" buttons
simultaneaously for 3 seconds. Select "Reset" in the menu that appears
and press "OK". A similar reset is obtained by leaving the batteries
out of the camera for a long time (12-24 hours).
Q: My camera gives out-of-focus images. What is wrong and how can I
A: The camera is by default set iESP focussing which automatically
selects what is most important to focus on. Often, the camera decides
that a contrast-rich background is more important than the subject. Set
the camera to "Spot-autofocus" by pressing the "OK"-button while
holding down the "AF/macro/MF"- button and select "spot" with the
selection wheel. That will make the camera to focus in the center of
the scene. Another possibility is that you set the camera manually
according to the distance gauge which isn't accurate at all.
Q: What is a lens tube?
A: A lens tube is the tube you attach to the camera body at the base of
the lens; add-on lenses and filters can be attached onto the other end
of the tube. For the C7070, which has a 48.5 mm tread on the body,
Olympus provides the lens tube CLA-7 which features a bayonet coupling
to the Olympus wide angle converter WCON-07C and the teleconverter
TCON-17C. On the C7070, filters of size 40.5 mm are screwed directly
onto the lens barrel.
Alternatively, you can get third party lens tubes from Raynox, Soligor
or Tiffen with standard filter threads that accepts filters as well as
third party auxillary lenses. More info is compiled in the document:
'Lens armour_adapter tubes.doc' in the 'Files' section of the Yahoo
MyOlympus discussion group.
Q: When is it beneficial to use a polarizing filter on my camera?
A: If a polarizing filter is rotated to the correct angle, it will
reduce light reflections from wet surfaces, asphalt, glass etc. or
darken the blue sky but leaving the white clouds essentially bright.
You also use it to reduce haze and glare in misty or polluted air
conditions. You can use it all the time but it will steal about 1-2
f-stops of light and it will not have any noticeable effect in other
situations than the above mentioned.
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