Olympus C4040z digital camera resource
data and user manuals
- Exposure, flash control and white balance
are fine. Usually only indoor shots require some EV adjustment, while
camera seems always to choose the best exposure for outdoor shots.
- The 4040 excels at producing pictures
which require no post-processing. In my Thailand
gallery for instance all pictures except for a few sunset ones
are unprocessed, just resized.
- The camera (at least mine) sometimes
fails to focus properly in low light conditions. I cope with this by
two shots of the same subject, one with the autofocus and the other
manual focus. Later I select the properly focused one.
- Some tips from Kevin McMurtrie:
- For best indoor flash results, use a
manual exposure with the longest exposure time that doesn't give you
blur. 1/30 sec is good for me. Activate the SLOW2 flash
and it will fill in light as needed. This minimizes flash use and
so reduces the blue flash glare.
- Dry sunny days, especially at high altitudes,
can produce harsh lighting. Turn on the flash and maybe turn down
the contrast too.
- Don't leave on noise reduction by accident.
It disables many features and makes the camera extremely slow.
can set noise reduction as a menu shortcut.
spot autofocus modes
- The Olympus 4040 has two autofocus modes:
iESP and spot (not to be confused with the spot light metering mode).
- iESP uses the whole image to focus,
spot only the central part. Thus in theory, spot autofocus should
reliable and precise focusing when the scene contains several parts at
different depths. Several people have recommended to set the camera to
spot autofocus by default.
- I checked the performance of iESP and
spot in a variety of situations. Here are the test
- My conclusions:
- Overall, I don't see any big sharpness
advantage of one autofocus mode over the other.
- In general iESP seems to have a slight
advantage over spot (the macro
shot,image 7 and image
8 are sharper in iESP than in spot).
- However in difficult focusing situations
such as in image 10 for
when there is a near big object and the actual subject is far away,
will do a better job.
- Personally I'd recommend to set the
camera to iESP autofocus by default and to use spot in situations like image
This is highly subjective, but I recommend
the following white balance settings for the best results:
- For daytime outdoor shots use sunlight
WB (clouds WB if the sky is overcast)
- For sunset shots and shots in the hour
before sunset, use auto WB
- For night shots and indoor shots use
auto WB (or manual WB, see the next section)
- In some cases you might get a slight
blue cast in outdoor shots with sunlight WB. You'll have to edit it
with a photo editor. Unfortunately the 4040 is not perfect.
- See the report by Moshe Ronen "White
Balance Settings" for some test images with different WB settings
interpretation of exif data.
- The Olympus C4040z offers the option
to manually set the white balance. To do so select manual white balance
in the menu and point the camera to an area which is either white or
(with the area filling the frame) and do the metering. See the
Auto white balance
Manual white balance from
- In the auto white balance picture the
house looks yellow, because the street illumination is yellow.
- In the manual white balance picture
the camera applies a blue colour cast to neutralise the yellow
The areas around the street lamps now are blue because due to the high
light intensity they were white in the initial image (i.e. the R, G and
B components are saturated). In the final image the blueish areas
have been edited away:
Manual white balance after
the Panorama function on non-Olympus Smartmedia cards
- The firmware of the Olympus 4040 (and
this holds for all Olympus cameras since at least the C2000 which was
in 1999) can be upgraded by the user.
- The procedure is very simple:
- First of all you need the firmware file.
The firmware files are not available for download in the Internet -
only Olympus has them.
- Take a Smartmedia memory card and format
it in the camera.
- Create a "firmware" directory in the
root directory of the card (the one containing the DCIM directory).
- Rename the firmware file to "firmware.bin"
and copy it to the firmware directory in the memory card.
- Set the camera into playback mode and
insert the memory card.
- Switch on the camera.
- A menu will appear, showing the current
firmware version and giving you two menu options ("yes" and "no").
- If you choose "yes" (use the arrow buttons)
the camera will update the firmware.
- IMPORTANT: MAKE SURE THAT THE BATTERIES
ARE FULLY CHARGED OR USE AN A/C ADAPTER. If the camera loses the power
during the flash operation, you'll have to send the camera to Olympus
RAW file format
- Thanks to Denys Sakva for reporting that it is possible to obtain
RAW files from an Olympus C40X0 (what follows is the post
he made in the Olympus
4040 users group):
|Today I was experimenting with my
Olympus C-4000 and found that it is possible to receive the RAW matrix
data. It's not an ORF file. Just RAW data from matrix, which can be
Here is how to do it:
1. Set camera mode to PC-controlling by opening card holder door and
pressing menu and Quick View button simultaneously for a few seconds.
2. Connect camera to USB and run Cam2Com or PTC Camera Controller (http://www.pinetreecomputing.com/camctl.asp)
3. Go to Camera info and change "OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA" to "DIAG RAW"
4. Disable PC control mode.
5. Take picture :-) Camera will save 2 jpg files. One is real jpg,
another one is 5800 Kb RAW.
- To convert this 4040 RAW file into a RAW file which can be
processed by Photoshop:
- The 4040 RAW file has exactly the same format as the RAW file
of a Nikon Coolpix.
- So go here: http://e2500.narod.ru/raw2nef_e.htm
- Get This: http://e2500.narod.ru/raw2nef_v0.10.zip
- Do raw2nefw.exe -auto -v -c file.jpg
where file.jpg is the RAW file you get from the Olympus 4040
- The result is a 7319 KByte .NEF file which can be processed
with Photoshop 7 and the Adobe RAW plugin or with Photoshop CS.
- In virtually every digital camera there
is a delay between the instant when you press the shutter and the
when the camera takes the picture. This is called shutter lag.
- To minimise the shutter lag keep the
shutter half pressed before taking a picture.
- See the detailed
- Without flash the minimum shutter
lag is 240 milliseconds.
- With flash the minimum shutter
lag is 570 milliseconds.
aberrations / Purple fringing
- There has been a lot of discussion about
this issue, but the fact simply is that only in a few % of the pictures
some chromatic aberration is visible. Generally this is the case when
is a strong backlight coupled with sharp edges. In general chromatic
is not too high (see these sample
- Before the fact:
- To reduce chromatic aberration simply
shoot at F4 or F5 instead of F1.8 (set the camera to aperture
See this test page in which a
case scenario' photo is taken at F2 and F4. You'll notice that in the
image the chromatic aberration is substantially lower.
- Others have suggested to avoid shooting
at wide angle, but I haven't found this to be particularly useful.
- After the fact:
- It is very simple to remove chromatic
aberrations from an image. Simply use a photo editor and set the
level of magenta (also green where this makes sense) to the minimum. In
some images you might have to set the saturation level of red to the
It might also make sense to limit the processing to the affected area
select the affected image area and only process that).
- In the macro world it is not relevant
how close you can get to the subject - what matters is what the minimum
area is which will fill the entire picture frame.
- To make this clear consider the following:
some cameras (email me if you want to know which one) can get as close
as 6 cm to the subject, but only at wide-angle (at full zoom they
focus at that distance). The smallest area which fills the frame at
angle and a distance of 6cm is 8 cm.
- The Olympus 4040 instead can focus in
macro mood at 20cm at full zoom capturing a minimum area of
7.5cm width. Even if the 4040 cannot get as close to the subject
as the other camera, it still manages to capture a smaller area - and
is what matters, especially if the subject is very small (an insect for
- If you set the 4040 not to full zoom
(i.e. 3x), but to 2x zoom (14 mm) you can get much closer to the
and get a minimum frame coverage of 52 mm (but that's difficult
to achieve, 56mm is more realistic). See this test
- Also see Jeremy McCreary's page Macro
filter and other filters
- A polariser filter helps to obtain deep
blue skies and to remove unwanted reflections. Consider the following
(both images taken with the polariser filter):
Perhentian island image
Same image with polariser rotated
by 90 degrees
- See the difference ? In the picture
to the right, the polariser filter substantially reduced the amount of
light reflected by the water surface making the sea ground more visible
and made the sky more dark.
- Polariser filters are also useful when
the lower part of the image is dark and the top (the sky) too bright.
- I'm using this 43mm polariser filter.
It is relatively small, causes no vignetting and fits directly on the
adapter without touching the lens.
- For indoor shots don't use the polariser,
as the filter will reduce the amount of light which reaches the camera.
- Have a look at Darwin
Wigget's page on filters for further information on polariser,
blue-yellow polariser, graduated neutral density and other filters
- See also Jeremy
McCreary's page on filters
photography with the Olympus 4040
- Generally speaking the Olympus 4040
is less sensitive to infrared radiation than the Olympus 2000. As you
see in the following images the infrared LED of the camera remote
is much brighter in the Olympus 2000 image. Probably there is an
filter in the 4040, as silicon CCDs in general are quite sensitive to
Oly 4040 photo of the remote control
(no infrared filter used)
Oly 2000 photo with the same exposure
(no infrared filter used)
- Here are some recommendations from Michael
- The trick is to manually set the ISO
to 100 ASA, with the noise reduction on for good measure. Using
the 4040 would set the camera to ISO 200 or 400 and the resulting
would be always too noisy looking.
- The shutter speeds are still slow, about
1/4 - 1/8 sec at ASA 100 wide-open. I've been using a tripod and
around F4 to widen the depth of field a little. As long as you are
a tripod, you may as well go for long shutter speeds, but don't go
than a second and a half or you'll start to see your hot pixels shining
through like photo-acne.
- Here is a picture Michael took with
the 4040 using a Hoya R72 filter at ISO 100, F4 and about 1 sec.
time, noise reduction on:
© Copyright Michael Klemmer
- The site Infrared
photography with your digital camera contains interesting
about infrared photography with Olympus cameras and an overview of
filters with their spectral characteristics.
- Have a look at Jeremy McCreary's very
informative page on Infrared
basics for digital photography.
- These sites contain useful information about infrared photography
with digital cameras:
Digital infrared photography - site devoted to digital infrared
photography with image galleries, information about filters and
equipment and links.
Infrared Photography page - excellent information resource devoted
to infrared photography with Olympus cameras. Information about
infrared filters, exposure settings, focus, post-processing, sample
images and links.
- Also see the Infrared
photography page of the Apogee magazine: this is an interesting
general introduction to infrared photography with digital cameras.
- A comparison of the B-300 vs. the TCON-17
teleconverter is available here
(test images with an Oly 2100 however).
- Some comments of Olympus 4040 users
(interesting links follow at the bottom of this section):
- Olympus B-300
- I'm using the B-300 by Olympus.
I have a 49 to 55mm step-up ring
permanently attached to it. On the camera I have an extension tube by
41 to 49mm and a UV filter.
I used to take off the filter
and screw on the lens, but I don't do it any more, I leave the filter
place and screw the lens onto it (some people will say it's not
but I didn't see any ill effects, it does not make vignetting worse).
The lens can be used only at
full zoom, or else you get vignetting.
The optical quality is very good,
although you get some pincushion distortion as you move away from
In practice it is not a problem, and if needed it is easyly corrected
I didn't notice that it effects
CA, I think CA at fool zoom is not a problem, anyway.
Overall, I'm quite satisfied
Olympus 4040_5050 Yahoo Forum
- Olympus TCON-14 and Tiffen Megaplus
- I use two telephoto converters.
I mount them on CLA-1 either with a 43->46mm step up or a 43mm empty
Olympus TCON-14 1.45x (1.35x actual). Bought used in March
2002. Sharpness is almost as sharp as without using it - very
No noticeable increase in CA. No vignetting above 2x zoom.
Satisfaction 4 from scale of 1-5 where 5 is most satisfied. I
Olympus rate this accurately as a 1.35x so it doesn't mislead people.
Tiffen Megaplus 2.0x (2.0x actual). Bought used in July
Center sharpness is comparable to TCON-14 but edges are
No noticeable increase in CA. Loss 1 stop of light. No
using full zoom. Large profile making it not suitable to use with
internal flash. Satisfaction 4. Lens is very heavy, thanks
to metal barrel. Must use an empty 43mm filter ring before
to avoid lens crash.
Olympus 4040_5050 Yahoo Forum
- Olympus Wide Conversion Lens .8X
- Brief description : 55mm rear thread
only, includes step-up ring 43-55mm for CLA-1
- Picture quality: Better than I've
expected regarding sharpness and CA. However it has lots of distortion,
which I fix with PS spherize filter, parameter -7.
- Image sharpness: Doesn't worsen the
given 4040 image sharpness. I must add that I shoot with sharpness and
contrast set to -5 and do the sharpnening in PS.
- Level of chromatic aberration (if
the lens increases it): I haven't noticed any increase so far. However
my sharpness and contrast settings affect (lower) CA too.
- Vignetting: No vignetting at all.
- How satisfied you are with it: I'd
prefer a .68X conversion giving an equivalent of 24mm.
- Tiffen wideangle Megaplus 0.75x
- I recently bought a Tiffen wideangle.
The megaplus x .75.
I took it on a recent trip to
Luxembourg, the first time I'd really used it, and despite that, I got
some pleasing results.
It was as sharp as normal, and
I didn't notice an increase in c.a. (although thats not to say there
one - it was very sunny however so plenty of opportunities for it to
up!). Didn't really need to stop up much, but as I said it was bright
I ended up keeping it on the
camera for much of the [day] time, arounf and about the city.
Its compact and seems robust,
and I must say is positively tiny when put next to the Oly effort!
thread - unlike the Oly quick release though.
No vignetting. Slight at full
w.a. if put on front of a filter, which I don't do anyway.
So I'm very satisfied with it.
After buying I though maybe I shouldn't have bothered as I was in 2
as to whether I needed it, but then after using it I like it.
I have the Tiffen tube too. Looks
nice, feels strong. Haven't taken it off since I bought it (with a
of filters too).
- Raynox wideangle 0.72x and
- I use raynox ones for wide angle.
They have 52mm thread and i have an adaptor tube from raynox to fit
I' ve got a raynox that is 0.72x and another one that is 0.33x. I'm
up for a 180° fish eye lense now. Their telephoto lense also works
fine. A 52mm tube is better than a 43mm tube by the way as you can have
more filters on it and less vignetting. You can stack two filters
that way or a filter then a lense. There are also more 52mm filters for
sale than 43mm.
Olympus 4040_5050 Yahoo forum
- And here some interesting pages:
page on teleconverter lenses contains a detailed overview of
lenses available for Olympus cameras (magnification between 1.4x and
thread size 43mm - 62mm). It also rates these lenses according to the
The page also contains several links to tests performed with these
Meissner's page on wide angle lenses for the Olympus C-2100UZ
contains an overview of wide angle lenses with different thread sizes
- 62 mm). Although I can't confirm it, these lenses should also be
with the Olympus 4040 with an appropriate adapter.
C4040 flash and the preflash
- To measure the timings and the duration
of the Olympus 4040 flash I performed a test. The detailed results are
- The results are:
- Flash duration varies between 60 and
- The peak intensity only changes slightly
between preflash and main flash; what changes is the flash duration.
- In the long range image the camera realises
that the subject is far away and increases the flash duration.
- In macro mode the camera selects automatically
a small aperture.
- However the main exposure control mechanism
seems to be the aperture. The flash itself plays a smaller role.
- What does all this mean in practice?
Well, since the minimum exposure time with the 4040 is 1/800 s - too
to freeze a rapidly moving subject such as a hummingbird for instance -
you can use the flash to achieve an effective shutter speed of 1/10000
- The Olympus BK01 bracket is needed
as a base to mechanically connect the flash to the camera.
- To connect a conventional studio flash
you need the FL-CB04 cable which converts the proprietary jack
the camera to a standard pc female jack. The CB04 cable has an X-output.
- To connect any other flash use the FL-CB01
cable (together with the BK01 bracket). The CB01 cable has a five pin
to connect a flash you'll need the BK01 bracket which acts as a
base and has a flash hotshoe. If you use a non-Olympus flash you have
set the flash manually (aperure and ISO).
- Important note:
you can't just connect any flash to the 4040. Check the manual (Chapter
11, page 179) for the specifications of compatible external flashes.
- FL-40 - some Olympus 4040 user
- " I quickly found a need for an external
flash so gave arm and leg for the FL-40 but I am really happy with it
I even use it outside in the sun to eliminate some of the harsh
The thing that I find outstanding in the Olympus line is the very good
color. The flesh tones seem better than anything that I have seen from
other Digital's. "
Bill Shell, Olympus 4040 Yahoo forum
- "I have noticed that the auto-focus
assist lamp on the FL-40 flash greatly helps the c-4040 obtaining
focus in difficult low-light situations. The camera has to be placed
to the flash on the bracket in order for the assist-light to be within
the intended field to be photographed.I am very pleased with this
I was somewhat disapointed of the focussing capabilities of this camera
in low-light prior to that.I use also the 1.4x teleconverter made by
and this allows me to be farther away from my subject and thus
the assist beam of the FL-40 to be more easily included in the field to
be photographed. I use the iESP focus mode in these situations since
assist-beam does not always shoot in the dead center of the
you have to auto-focus lock on the beam and then reposition a bit your
camera to take your picture."
J.F.Mercier, Olympus 4040 Yahoo forum
- Have a look at this interesting site
on the FL-40 flash:
the FL-40 Pre Flash by Dave Weikel
- Moshe Ronen wrote an
about using an FL-40 flash with an Olympus E20. The report is also
to the Olympus 4040. See here - TTL
Flash Principles Applied to Olympus E-xx.
- For test pictures taken with the Olympus
4040 and the FL-40 flash have a look here.
- Jeremy McCreary deals in depth with
this topic in this
the Olympus 4040 with a computer
There are a few software packages
which allow you to control the camera with a computer (haven't tried
myself, so maybe first check the website):
(Software Development Kit)
To control the 4040 with a computer
(for instance to do time-lapse photography) you can use the SDK
You will need the Camedia SDK 3.0 Gold to control the C4040. It will
you a nominal fee of $15.
(By Sergei Menchenin)
Cam2Com allows to control Olympus
digital cameras from a computer and to take pictures directly onto the
hard drive. Users can control all exposure settings, camera setting,
and focus, take multiple pictures, rotate them (using lossless JPEG
compare the pictures to select one with the best quality and save
It also has a few other useful features,
like automatic taking of multiple pictures over a period of time and
existing pictures from the camera in somewhat more streamlined process
than Camedia Master does.
At this time it is free to download.
Controller (from Pine Tree Computing)
Camera Controller is software that
can be used to control an Olympus digital camera from a PC. Camera
lets you set up your camera and take both single frame and time lapse
directly from your camera to your PC. Also included is a fast download
- Akond.ru are developing a
software for camera control. It's not free, but you might give it a try.
- Update 09.06.03: new portable storage
devices (do a Google search to find the manufacturers' sites):
- the Archos Multimedia Jukebox w/photo
attachment 20 gb - also plays mp3s. Costs more.
- SuperDigibin - includes ac charger /
car charger - 30 gb
- Disc Steno - burn cds from flash card
- Nixvue Vizor (not out yet) - burns cds
from flash cards, spans discs for large cards, playback on tv.
- Tripper - similar to digibin
- Flashtrax from smartdisk (not out yet)
- 2.5 inch lcd, plays mp3s, image playback on device, costs more.
DigiMagic: burns CDs directly from the memory card (but how do you
know that the burning process was successful? ...)
- When travelling I use a Toshiba subnotebook
(P1 133MHz with 64 MB RAM) to store, catalog and process the
There are also portable storage devices, but the advantage of the
is that all image processing (i.e. deleting bad ones, sorting them
can be done while travelling. That's especially relevant on long trips.
The disadvantage is that a subnotebook is bulkier and heavier than a
- Portable storage devices:
Wallet - a portable HD with a card reader with 3 - 20 GB capacity
- a portable HD with a card reader with up to 40 GB capacity
- same as Digital Wallet, ImageTank etc. but has a small colour LCD
to view the pictures - up to 20 GB capacity
Image Tank review has a comparison of these different
bag I'm using
|It's a relatively compact bag from
Cullmann (next to it a CD to get an idea of the size). The bag can also
be carried with a belt.
||The inside of the bag with the 4040
with CLA1, polariser filter and lense cover; next to it a transparent
container (originally this was the container of the polariser filter)
which I put the Smartmedia cards. The smaller side bag (with a zip)
two sets of spare batteries, the remote control, a lens cleaning stick
and a tiny tripod.
- Be careful about using an Olympus PT-010
housing. Here is what happened to a user (message posted in the Yahoo
"I just come back from a dive trip
. My friend and my Pt-010 housing both leakage. My friend just dive to
about 25M to 28M and he found his 4040 inside the housing is 1/4
sea water so he go up as quick as he can. After he found his 4040 on
dis. was full of sea water. My 4040 is better ,after a 30M dive cause
houeing limit is 30M still nothing happen. Next a 25M dive I found some
drop of water inside the housing. Both of as have check the O ring and
clean all the parts before and after every dive. So becareful to use
Hope anyone can share his experience and the price of a metal housing
think it is much more safe and where tobuy it. Thank you
- The Olympus
Underwater Housing Online Manual contains in-depth illustrated
on how to prepare the PT-010 housing for diving.
- The site Digideep.com
is an online directory for digital underwater photography.
- Interesting forum for underwater photography: DigitalDiver.net
recovery / Smartmedia problems
- 21.10.03: perhaps the best software
tool now available to recover images from a corrupted memory card is
Inspector Smart Recovery tool. It's freeware.
- Check this site: Digital
Christian Grau has some software
tools to fix damaged Smartmedia cards. The software used to be free,
also has a software tool (Photorescue) for repairing damaged Smartmedia
cards, although it's not free.
- Also have a look at PC Inspector's File
Recovery. It's free.
by Kurt Stege, is a free tool to recover deleted images from a memory
is another tool. Price is $39.95.
resolution at different aperture and zoom settings
- Here the question is how the lens resolution
changes at different aperture and zoom settings.
- Generally speaking the lens performs
best in the centre and worst at the edges, so that at smaller apertures
the resolution should be higher than at larger apertures. In addition
this the smaller the aperture the larger the depth of field (DOF), i.e.
the range of distances at which the camera focuses properly.
- However diffraction limits the resolution
at small apertures.
- Concerning the zoom level in general
the DOF decreases as the zoom level increases (i.e. tele having less
than wide angle).
- Keith Jackson performed an interesting
test to measure the performance of the Olympus 4040 lens. His
- Overall the 4040 lens is very consistent
in his resolution.
- At large apertures (i.e. F1.8-2.0) the
lens performs well in the centre and less well in the edges. The best
are achieved around F4 - at F10 there is decidedly less resolution,
when shooting at the tele end of the zoom (105mm equivalent).
- All this means that for the best results
you should shoot at F4 whenever possible, i.e. if there is enough
otherwise the long exposure times and the consequent camera shake limit
- The complete test results are available
in his page Olympus
C-4040Zoom and the Sweet-Spot.
- The picture files of the Olympus 4040
contain the complete exposure information (aperture, exposure time,
length, white balance and so on).
- This data is usually lost when you edit
the pictures; but some modern image editing software packages keep the
data intact when saving the processed intact.
- To read this data you can use these
by Ryuuji Yoshimoto. Haven't tried the software myself, but it looks
Image Viewer, by Michal Kowalski. This is the one I'm using.
from his homepage:
"EXIF viewer is a simple image
viewer application for photos taken with digital cameras. It's capable
of reading EXIF information embedded in photos as well as little
Because small thumbnail is already present in most photos displaying it
is really fast.
EXIF viewer can also provide
detailed information about photos (shutter speed, aperture, etc.) and
list them for comparison purposes.
EXIF viewer also displays image
histogram. It also features copying/moving and deleting of selected
Single photograph can be displayed in separate window or in a full
by Friedemann Schmidt. I'm using this one too. It can rewrite EXIF data
to images which lost it due to processing with a software package which
doesn't support EXIF. Quoting from his site:
"Exifer is a nearly free software
(you only should send me a postcard if you're using Exifer frequently)
with which you can manage the metadata (EXIF/IPTC) of pictures taken by
Because many image processing
software destroys this metadata when saving such files, the idea was to
create a backup of the metadata before editing it in any software, and
then, after that to restore it back into the processed file. With
you can do this very easily. "
with the 4040
(by Juan Rodriguez-Torrent)
- Olympus 4040, Meade ETX 60 ($98 at Costco)
- A couple of pictures of the moon are
- Or better yet this guy took exceptional
pictures with a 4040
- BUT if you want to see really impressive
stuff and talk to the experts start here:
- If you read Italian these
guys have done a lot of pioneering work with a 4040
- Astrophotography users's group here
may be also a good source.
- And last but not least this
site has enough links and information to keep you plugged for
What follows is a list of FAQs (frequently asked questions) compiled by
Jens Birch, based on questions asked in the Olympus 4040
Q: Can I use a linear polarizer with my camera?
A: Yes. You can use either linear or circular polarizers. Circular ones
are needed for most autofocus SLR cameras (not the Olympus E-10 and
Q: How can I avoid the annoying beeping sound when turning ON by
A: Turn mode dial to GREEN ARROW...it works every time! You can also
use a sufficiently long lens tube
Q:How can I speed up the time it takes for the camera to take the
picture after I press the shutter button?
A: There are many things you can do:
- You can be prepared beforehand by 1/2-pressing the shutter button
(and keeping it 1/2-pressed) while aiming at the subject before the
actual moment when you want to take the picture. The autofocus (AF) and
the aperture will be set and the camera will then take the picture with
no time lag when you press the last 1/2-way.
- By having the LCD switched on, the time to activate the cameras
AF and metering will be reduced by about 2 seconds.
- Set the camera to manual focus (MF) at the subject distance you
intend to take the picture at. This is most easily done by aiming at an
object at the distance you want to use and 1/2-pressing the shutter
button. While keeping it 1/2-pressed, press the AF/Macro/MF button.
That fixes the focus at the desired distance and the camera is set to
MF. This will significantly reduce the shutter lag.
- Set the camera to manual exposure (M) which further reduces the
- When it is tricky to catch the moment, use Hi-drive sequential
shooting and start taking pictures just before you think the action
starts. Use the optical viewfinder in order to follow the action when
the camera's LCD is occupied while taking the pictures.
- Turn off the "REC-view in the "SETUP" tab in the "Mode Menu".
That will minimize the time that the just taken picture is displayed
and you will be ready for the next shot as soon as possible.
- Use fully charged batteries if you are using the on-board flash.
Otherwise it takes a long time to re-charge.
Q: How can I stop the camera from entering sleep mode after 3 minutes?
A: Plug in an external DC power unit or a battery pack. You can also
excercise the zoom a little now and then with the remote control.
Q: How do I tell what firmware version I have?
A: One way of doing it is to open a picture in a text editor such as
Notepad, and search for the string "v552p". The number of the firmware
version follows right after that; for example, v552p-A78 means you have
version 78. A second method is, when viewing an unedited image in
Windows XP, right click on on the image, then click on properties, then
metadata, and it should be listed.
Q: How do I use a polarizing filter to best effect?
A: The LCD normally compensates for the brightness of the scene which
makes the effect hard to see. To see the effect on the LCD you must
circumvent that compensation by locking the automatic exposure
temporarily. You can do that in two ways, either by pressing the AEL
button once or by keeping the shutter button 1/2-pressed. Now, while
the exposure is locked, rotate the filter and observe the effect on the
LCD screen, when you are satisfied with the effect you must press AEL
again or release the 1/2 half pressed shutter button in order to
re-activate the exposure meter (to get a correctly exposed picture). If
your polarizing filter feature a little knob or a white dot, you can
get maximal effect without looking at the LCD by rotating the filter
until the knob/dot points towards the direction where the sun is on the
sky (as good as you can). This is useful in sunny days when viewing the
LCD is difficult.
Q: How to RESET my camera?
A: A "soft" reset to factory default shooting settings, but without
changing date and file-numbering, is done either by simultaneously
pressing the "self-timer" and "custom" buttons or by setting the "All
Reset" to ON in SETUP in MODE MENU and then restarting the camera.
There is also a "hard" reset which basically restarts the "firmware"
(the program that runs the camera) and wipes out the on-board memory.
NOTE: This reset is intended for technicians to use. This is done by:
putting the camera in M mode, opening the memory door, turning the
camera on and then hold the "OK" and "Quickview" buttons
simultaneaously for 3 seconds. Select "Reset" in the menu that appears
and press "OK" . For the C8080 it is done by opening the storage door
and pressing "OK" and "Monitor" buttons simultaneously. A similar reset
is obtained by leaving the batteries out of the camera for a long time
Q: What is a lens tube?
A: A lens tube is the tube you attach to the camera body at the base of
the lens; add-on lenses and filters can be attached onto the other end
of the tube. For the C3040, C4040 and C5050, the thread on the camera
body is 41 mm and he Olympus lens tube is the CLA-1 has a 43 mm filter
thread. Olympus also sell the CLA-5 which is a CLA-1 plus a 43-55 mm
step up ring. Note that only certain 43 m filters will work together
with the CLA-1 on the C5050 (see another FAQ about that).
Alternatively, you can get third party lens tubes from Raynox, Soligor
or Tiffen with standard filter threads that accepts filters as well as
third party auxillary lenses. More info is compiled in the document:
'Lens armour_adapter tubes.doc' in the 'Files' section of the Olympus 4040
users group and at http://www.wrotniak.net/photo/c5050/lens-adapt.html.
Q: When is it beneficial to use a polarizing filter on my camera?
A: If a polarizing filter is rotated to the correct angle, it will
reduce light reflections from wet surfaces, asphalt, glass etc. or
darken the blue sky but leaving the white clouds essentially bright.
You also use it to reduce haze and glare in misty or polluted air
conditions. You can use it all the time but it will steal about 1-2
f-stops of light and it will not have any noticeable effect in other
situations than the above mentioned.
Q: Where is the nodal point located?
A: Distance from the center of the tripod socket:
- Wide = 1.25 inches=32.0 mm
- Wide + WCON-08 = 2.16 inches=54.8 mm
- Tele = 0.130 inches=3.3 mm.
4040 Photo Galleries
bird gallery: a number of amazing bird pictures taken with the
remotely controlled by a computer (Cam2com)
© Copyright 2002-2005 Alfred