Olympus C5060

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Most of the text was taken from Online Resource and then converted to the wiki format which did not always work properly. But you can improve it!


Contents

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Technical data and reference manuals

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Reviews

  • Here is a review of the 5060 (in Slovenian, but with many interesting images)
  • See the (not so impressive) review of PCReview
  • Dec 17th: Megapixel.net published their review of the C5060.Comment: they rate the 5060 with 8.6 for functionality and 9.6 (out of 10) for image quality - one of the highest scores they have ever given to a "compact high end" digital camera. Only DSLRs score higher for image quality. The 5060 is an excellent camera, the only drawback is the lens aperture.
  • Dec. 6th: see Mr. Wrotniak's technical review of the 5060. Also see his comparison of the 5050 and 5060.
  • Dec. 5th: DCResource posted their review of the 5060.
  • Nov. 21st: full review of the 5060 posted by Imaging Resource (production camera)
  • Nov 18th: two new reviews of the Olympus 5060 in Japanese:
  • Review by Steve's Digicams: with a pre-production C-5060, no sample images yet.
  • See the press release
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Sample images

  • Dec. 6th: See the samples posted by Andrzej Wrotniak on his site. These are several samples of outdoor and indoor shots.
  • Nov 7th: Jim posted more samples, this time to pbase.
  • Nov. 6th: Jim Ingraham posted some samples on his site. CAUTION: LARGE FILES ! (takes a while to download)Comment: quality is very good - both chromatic aberrations and noise are low.
  • See the sample images on the Olympus Japan site.Comment: noise seems lower than in the first sample images of the 5050. Possibly Olympus introduced a noise reduction filter into the 5060.


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White balance settings


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RAW file format


  • The latest release of Adobe Photoshop CS supports the 5060 RAW file format (download an actual plugin from the Adobe site).
  • Another Free program that can view RAW is Picasa2 available from www.picasa.com
  • See this page with a comparison of RAW and SHQ JPEG images (note: 5050 RAW images).
  • Karl Johnson created this page comparing RAW, TIFF, SHQ and HQ images. For RAW conversion he used the Adobe Photoshop RAW plugin. Comments:
    • Interestingly HQ is more smooth than SHQ.
    • (The output of Adobe PS) RAW is smoothest and contains the least noise, but also less detail compared to SHQ.
  • With the Camedia Master that comes with the 5060 you can browse, open, and save the 5060 .ORF RAW file as an Exif TIFF (8 bit). You can set saturation, contrast and sharpening The ExifReader software is able to open the TIFF and read the Exif header.
  • More links to information on RAW format:
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Memory cards

Note: of course there are lots of CF card brands and types which are compatible with the 5060 and are not listed there.

  • See this memory card speed test (data kindly supplied by the members of the Olympus 5060 users group)
  • It appears that the 5060 writes to the memory card three times slower than the 5050 (see the memory card speed test by Jens Birch to get an idea of the write speeds of the 5050 with different memory cards). Try doing the following:
    • Shoot four RAW images in the Hi Drive mode
    • Measure with a stopwatch the time needed to
      • a) shoot these four RAW images and
      • b) the time the camera needs to write the four RAW images to the memory card
  • It appears that the 5060 needs 1.8 seconds for a) and 33 seconds for b) with a fast CF card. The 5050 needs 1.8 seconds and 11 seconds respectively (measured with the 512MB 30x Transcend CF card I'm using).
  • It's not clear why the 5060 is so much slower than the 5050. In any case, the long write times make the 5060 less suitable for shooting images in RAW mode.

Which memory card to use with the Olympus 5060 ?

  • Generally speaking CF (CompactFlash) cards are cheaper than xD cards. Fast CF cards are also faster than xD cards in the Olympus 5060, so the only reason to use xD cards is if you want to use the camera's panorama function (note however that you can shoot panos by setting the camera into manual mode and locking the white balance, or setting the camera into manual mode and shooting RAW).
  • So, unless you want to use the Olympus 5060 panorama function, the question becomes: which CF card to use ?
    • Well, the 5060 limits the read/write speed to about 1 MByte/s - that corresponds to about a 7x speed (1x is 150 KByte/s).
    • This means that even a cheap 12x CF card is perfectly adequate and very fast CF cards are not necessary, as the camera is the limiting factor. In other words, if you buy an expensive 65x CF card for usage with the 5060 you are wasting your money.


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Firmware

  • Firmware v756-84 is now the latest firmware for the 5060. You can only get it, if you send in the camera to Olympus. The following has been reported about this firmware by a user:
    • Lower noise levels
    • Autofocus in low light is better, but still a bit slow
    • Overall the camera responds faster


  • Firmware v756-83 can be downloaded from this site. This is apparently an inofficial download, as it is a .bin file. To install it, follow this procedure:
    • Take a memory card and format it in the camera.
    • With a card reader, create a "firmware" directory in the root directory of the card (the one containing the DCIM directory).
    • Rename the firmware file to "firmware.bin" and copy it to the firmware directory in the memory card.
    • Set the camera into playback mode and insert the memory card.
    • Switch on the camera.
    • A menu will appear, showing the current firmware version and giving you two menu options ("yes" and "no").
    • If you choose "yes" (use the arrow buttons) the camera will update the firmware.
    • IMPORTANT: MAKE SURE THAT THE BATTERIES ARE FULLY CHARGED OR USE AN A/C ADAPTER. If the camera loses the power during the flash operation, you'll have to send the camera to Olympus for servicing.
    • Once the firmware update is complete, the camera will power off.
    • Set the camera to any shooting mode (e.g. [P]rogram) and format the memory card again.
      This will remove the "firmware" directory and prevent consecutive firmware updates.


  • Details of the update:
    • Improvement in the quality of RAW image data (lower noise level) in CAMEDIA Master. (There is no problem in original RAW image data taken by a camera.)


    • Shutter click is set to sound twice in BULB shooting: when pushing the shutter button and when you release your finger from the button.
    • Changed the camera's default resolution setting in movie mode to HQ (320 x 240 pixels) as described in the instruction manual.
    • Revised the display of shutter speed in detailed shooting information.
    • Revised ALL RESET in the camera. When you power off the camera while the AF target is displayed on the monitor, the next time you turn on the camera, the setting is retained, so only the AF target is displayed on the monitor.
    • Revised Frame Assist templates.
  • Note
    • You cannot return to the previous version of firmware after the update.
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Chromatic aberrations / Purple fringing

  • Under construction
  • To remove chromatic aberrations with an image editor:
    • It is very simple to remove chromatic aberrations from an image. Simply use a photo editor and set the saturation level of magenta (also green where this makes sense) to the minimum. In some images you might have to set the saturation level of red to the minimum. It might also make sense to limit the processing to the affected area (i.e. select the affected image area and only process that).

Mike Wright's page


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Polariser filter and other filters

  • See this thread in the 5060 users group (note: first sign up with Yahoo). Here follows an extract:
    • According to info on the web (very limited!!!) CLA-7 has bayonet mount, there's not a word about threaded mount. Unfortunately (according to the Olympus CZ answer) CLA-5 doesn't work with 5060WZ. So I thought that a solution could be a 40.5-55mm step-up ring, but I didn't find any, all very only from 40.5 to max 49mm.
  • Olympus released in December 2003 a protective filter, UV filter, and a polarizer filter for the 5060. Go to the bottom of this page.
  • General: Polariser filter
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Accessories

  • Nov. 18th:
    • See this (Japanese) site with good pictures of the coming accessories to the C5060 WZ.
    • CLA-7 is a conversion lens adapter with bayonet mount. It allows mounting the TCON-17C and WCON-07C lenses and can also be used as a lens hood. Note however, that the CLA-7 comes without a cap, so you will need to get a 72mm slip-on cap to keep the lens protected.
    • B-HLD20 is a power battery holder (aka "vertical grip"). It can take up to two BLM-1 batteries, has a remote cable socket and additional shutter release button and zoom lever for shooting vertically oriented pictures.
    • There are polarizing and UV filters (supposedly) shown as well but with a filter diameter of 40.5 mm.
    • Also the other goodies for under water photography and carrying the camera are displayed with nice large pictures if you click on the thumbnails.Jens Birch, Olympus 5060 users group
  • Here is the official Japanese accessories site.
  • A close-up view of the B-HLD20 battery holder and its portrait shutter button can be found here.
  • Some images:
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Infrared photography with the Olympus 5060

  • The 5060 is not very sensitive to infrared light, due to an internal infrared cut-off filter. You need long exposure times.
  • See the comment of Eddie Wiseman, posted in the Olympus 5060 users group:
    • It works - however, be prepared for LOOOONG shutter speeds and the use of a tripod..Using a HOYA R72 (AKA "RM72") filter, I'm getting 15" at f8, iso 80 in bright sun..If I go to f5.6 of course I can cut that time to 7.5"..Or if I dare to use ISO400....etc etc..The bottom line is that you will not be able to hand-hold this camera..sturdy means of support is necessary....I haven't had many chances to get out and shoot here about 20 miles north of Boston, where everything outdoors is brown dirty and lacking of GREEN foliage.. Also, before you ask, Hoya starts this filter off at 49mm..I suggest you go up a size or two (ie 52/55mm) so that you don't get any vignetting at the W/A setting..Of course you will need the appropriate sized step-up ring as well..
  • The site Infrared photography with your digital camera contains interesting information about infrared photography with Olympus cameras and an overview of infrared filters with their spectral characteristics.
  • These sites contain useful information about infrared photography with digital cameras:
    • Echeng.com: Digital infrared photography - site devoted to digital infrared photography with image galleries, information about filters and equipment and links.
    • Wrotniak's Infrared Photography page - excellent information resource devoted to infrared photography with Olympus cameras. Information about infrared filters, exposure settings, focus, post-processing, sample images and links.
    • Also see the Infrared photography page of the Apogee magazine: this is an interesting general introduction to infrared photography with digital cameras.
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Auxiliary lenses

  • TCON-30C - Tele Conversion Lens with bajonet mount
    • 3x teleconverter, which got good reviews (good sharpness)
    • The adapter CLA-7 is required.



  • Olympus TCON 17
    • Brief description: Oly TCON 17, Soligor adapter + 52->55 step-up ring

Picture quality: no visible drop in quality, I didn't check it pixel by pixel

Image sharpness: no visible drop in sharpness

Level of chromatic aberration (if the lens increases it): not increased

Vignetting: usable only at tele position, vigneting approx on 3/4 of range

How satisfied: fine - apart from the rear thread... it seams not to be as durable as it should, I plan to buy additional 52->55 step-up to keep it on all the time

Marian Harustak


  • MCON-40 close up unit
    • I have acquired an Olympus MCON-40 close-up unit, a 55mm thread fit close-up achromat lens with two elements, with somewhat better optical quality than the traditional single element types. This unit is a rebadged version of the B-Macro unit for Olympus iS-series bridge (film) cameras, and is compatible with any camera that has 55mm thread fit lens or adapter. Olympus Europe has a page showing the models that are compatible, though I don't have the address available right now.

Simon Evans


  • Mr Wrotniak review the WCON-07C and TCON-17C auxiliary lenses with the Olympus 5060. See his detailed report.


  • Olympus has released the TCON-17C teleconverter lens and the WCON-07C wide angle converter lens for usage with the 5060. Some pictures of these lenses here.
  • Some interesting links:


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External flash


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Mode dial failure issue

  • Reports of weird failures of the 5060 started appearing in the Olympus 5060 users group as early as in December 2003. This was dismissed by Olympus as an isolated accident, a bad production batch. Well, now in September 2004 the issue is still here and well alive.
  • The culmination of the whole story happened when even Mr Wrotniak, who bought an Olympus 5060 to complement his Olympus 5050, experienced the mode dial failure issue with his 5060. That prompted him to set up a page about it.
  • Here is a description of the problem:
    • The symptoms of a mode dial failure may not look exactly the same in all cameras. The camera's buttons and menu system may become unresponsive in association with the use of the dial. Unexpected menus may pop up or the camera may get stuck on some unintended setting. From owner reports, it appears that this is caused by a failure with the dial hardware.
  • If this happens to, send the camera to Olympus for repairs (hopefully it's still in warranty).
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Controlling the Olympus 5060 with a computer

  • Try these software packages
  • Thanks to Peter Huebner for reporting that Pine Tree Camera Controller works with the 5050 (and possibly also with the 5060):
    • "I installed the Pinetree Camera Controller on my PC. Open Media door on the camera, turn on, press OK/Menu button and LCD display button simultaneously for a few seconds, a menu pops up on the LCD screen - put camera in to control mode. Close Media door, plug in USB cable and fire up the software (the software won't work if the camera is not in control mode!). First time round the software asks you to select the camera, they then engage in a lengthy dialogue (I felt quite left out) and then it simply works! I found the software had set my camera to something like 640x400 resolution - and the next time I went to use it in the field it was still in that resolution, and I didn't notice until later! Beware :-)."
  • Also see "How to put the camera into PC control mode"
  • Cam2Com: see this information.
  • Akond.net are developing a software for camera control. It's not free, but you might give it a try.
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Travelling and storage

  • August 03: I just bought a Vosonic X's Drive 2. Without HD (I had one already) the price was below 100 Euro. This thing comes with a fast USB2 interface and will read Smartmedia, CF I and II, Memory sticks and SD/MMC cards. As far as I know this external storage device is currently the lowest cost device available. Quality and performance are good.
  • Update 09.06.03: new portable storage devices (do a Google search to find the manufacturers' sites):
    • the Archos Multimedia Jukebox w/photo attachment 20 gb - also plays mp3s. Costs more.
    • SuperDigibin - includes ac charger / car charger - 30 gb
    • Disc Steno - burn cds from flash card
    • Nixvue Vizor - burns cds from flash cards, spans discs for large cards, playback on tv.
    • Tripper - similar to digibin
    • Flashtrax from smartdisk (not out yet) - 2.5 inch lcd, plays mp3s, image playback on device, costs more.
    • EZ DigiMagic: burns CDs directly from the memory card (but how do you know that the burning process was successful? ...)
  • When travelling I use a Toshiba subnotebook (P1 133MHz with 64 MB RAM) to store, catalog and process the images. There are also portable storage devices, but the advantage of the subnotebook is that all image processing (i.e. deleting bad ones, sorting them etc.) can be done while travelling. That's especially relevant on long trips. The disadvantage is that a subnotebook is bulkier and heavier than a portable storage device.
  • Portable storage devices:
    • Digital Wallet - a portable HD with a card reader with 3 - 20 GB capacity
    • ImageTank - a portable HD with a card reader with up to 40 GB capacity
    • Nixvue - same as Digital Wallet, ImageTank etc. but has a small colour LCD screen to view the pictures - up to 20 GB capacity
  • Reto's Image Tank review has a comparison of these different solutions


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Underwater Photography

  • See this detailed review of the PT020 underwater housing, complete with photos of the housing, its parts and the housing for the FL20 external flash.
  • Oct. 12th: Olympus is releasing the PT-020, a new underwater housing for the 5060. See the press release on Olympus Japan's site (if you speak Japanese). For those who are not fluent in Japanese, here is a translation posted by laz217 on the wetpixel.com forum:
    • "Waterproof protector

Waterproof protector " PT-020 " (desired retail price: If 28,000 Yen, November last third sale schedule) you use, feeling at rest even with the outdoor scene, and the business scene and the like with the outside it can do photographing. It is the protector of active real specification even with diving which actualizes the pressure-resistant depth of water 40m. As for this protector with Olympus first system protector, portion of protector the wide port " PPO-02 " for PT-020 of selling separately (desired retail price: 16,000 Yen, November last third sale schedule) by the fact that you exchange, real underwater wide photographing becomes possible when private conversion lens adapter " CLA-7 " and wide conversion lens " WCON-0C7c " are installed in the camera. In addition, flash " FL-20 " outside exclusive use (desired retail price: 15,000 Yen) waterproof protector " PFL-01 " of business (desired retail price: If 28,000 Yen, November last third sale schedule) you use, TTL automatic photographing at underwater becomes possible."

  • The site Digideep.com is an online directory for digital underwater photography.
  • Interesting forum for underwater photography: DigitalDiver.net


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Data recovery

  • Convar's PC Inspector Smart Recovery tool now supports JPEG, TIFF and RAW. Freeware - highly recommended.
  • Check this site: Digital image recovery
  • Datarescue also has a software tool (Photorescue) for repairing damaged memory cards, although it's not free.
  • Also have a look at PC Inspector's File Recovery. It's free.
  • Jpegdump, by Kurt Stege, is a free tool to recover deleted images from a memory card - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
  • Photorecovery is another tool. Price is $39.95.
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Noise reduction

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Exposure information data (EXIF)

  • The picture files of the Olympus 5060 contain the complete exposure information (aperture, exposure time, focal length, white balance and so on).
  • This data is usually lost when you edit the pictures; but some modern image editing software packages keep the data intact when saving the processed intact.
  • To read this data you can use these software tools:
    • ExifReader, by Ryuuji Yoshimoto. Haven't tried the software myself, but it looks interesting. Freeware.
    • Exif Image Viewer, by Michal Kowalski. This is the one I'm using. Quoting from his homepage:"EXIF viewer is a simple image viewer application for photos taken with digital cameras. It's capable of reading EXIF information embedded in photos as well as little thumbnail. Because small thumbnail is already present in most photos displaying it is really fast.

EXIF viewer can also provide detailed information about photos (shutter speed, aperture, etc.) and conveniently list them for comparison purposes.

EXIF viewer also displays image histogram. It also features copying/moving and deleting of selected photos. Single photograph can be displayed in separate window or in a full screen mode."

    • Exifer, by Friedemann Schmidt. I'm using this one too. It can rewrite EXIF data to images which lost it due to processing with a software package which doesn't support EXIF. Quoting from his site:"Exifer is a nearly free software (you only should send me a postcard if you're using Exifer frequently) with which you can manage the metadata (EXIF/IPTC) of pictures taken by digital cameras. Because many image processing software destroys this metadata when saving such files, the idea was to create a backup of the metadata before editing it in any software, and then, after that to restore it back into the processed file. With Exifer you can do this very easily. "
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Linux and the 5060

  • Tobias Reif managed to connect the 5060 to a computer using Linux. Here is his report:


here are the steps (I'm on Suse 9.0 [1]): 1. boot Suse

(optionally do

$ sudo tail -f /var/log/messages

)

2. connect:

0.

  • use external power supply
  • "SETUP" -> "USB" must be set to "PC" (not "PRINT")
  • set playback mode on cam
  • make sure camera is turned off

1. connect with USB cable

2. turn camera on

3. watch:

  • drive icon appears on desktop: sda1

(rightclick -> properties: device /dev/sda1 mounted at /media/sda1)

(clicking on it would mount the cam and open it in Konqueror

"Icon View" => convenient thumbnail previews)

(watch tail -f for USB stuff)

... or just wait a moment

4. get the pics:

(as user:)

$ mount | grep media

$ mount /media/sda1

$ mount | grep media

/dev/sda1 on /media/sda1 type vfat (rw,nosuid,nodev,sync,user=tobi)

$ cd /media/sda1/dcim/100olymp/

$ cp -i ./* ~/data/move_to_cd/olyc5060_unchanged/

$ mv -i ./* ~/data/pics/olyc5060_changed/2004/01/10/

$ ls

$ cd

$ umount /media/sda1

$ mount | grep media

$

turn cam off

unplug cam



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Astrophotography with the Olympus 5060

  • Astrophotography users's group here
  • This may be also a good source.
  • And last but not least this site has enough links and information to keep you plugged for several lifetimes.
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Links

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FAQs

What follows is a list of FAQs (frequently asked questions) compiled by Jens Birch, based on questions asked in the Olympus 5060 users group.

Q: Can I use a linear polarizer with my camera?

A: Yes. You can use either linear or circular polarizers. Circular ones are needed for most autofocus SLR cameras (not the Olympus E-10 and E-20 though).

Q: How can I avoid the annoying beeping sound when turning ON by mistake?

A: Turn mode dial to GREEN ARROW...it works every time! You can also use a sufficiently long lens tube (does not work for the 8080 without vignetting).

Q: How can I obtain exposure times longer than 4 seconds (1/2 second for the C8080) or shorter than 1/1000 second?

A: You must have the camera in manual (M) mode. On the C5060, you can use exposure times up to 120 sec. by using the "Bulb" mode.

Q:How can I speed up the time it takes for the camera to take the picture after I press the shutter button?

A: There are many things you can do:

  1. You can be prepared beforehand by 1/2-pressing the shutter button (and keeping it 1/2-pressed) while aiming at the subject before the actual moment when you want to take the picture. The autofocus (AF) and the aperture will be set and the camera will then take the picture with no time lag when you press the last 1/2-way.
  2. By having the LCD switched on, the time to activate the cameras AF and metering will be reduced by about 2 seconds.
  3. Set the camera to manual focus (MF) at the subject distance you intend to take the picture at. This is most easily done by aiming at an object at the distance you want to use and 1/2-pressing the shutter button. While keeping it 1/2-pressed, press the AF/Macro/MF button. That fixes the focus at the desired distance and the camera is set to MF. This will significantly reduce the shutter lag.
  4. Set the camera to manual exposure (M) which further reduces the shutter lag.
  5. When it is tricky to catch the moment, use Hi-drive sequential shooting and start taking pictures just before you think the action starts. Use the optical viewfinder in order to follow the action when the camera's LCD is occupied while taking the pictures.
  6. Turn off the "REC-view in the "SETUP" tab in the "Mode Menu". That will minimize the time that the just taken picture is displayed and you will be ready for the next shot as soon as possible.
  7. Use fully charged batteries if you are using the on-board flash. Otherwise it takes a long time to re-charge.


Q: How can I stop the camera from entering sleep mode after 3 minutes?

A: Plug in an external DC power unit or a battery pack. You can also excercise the zoom a little now and then with the remote control. Note that later versions of the C5060 firmware makes the camera fall asleep already after 30 seconds.

Q: How do I copy between cards in the camera?

A: Change the Camera to Playback Mode, press OK, press right, go to the Edit menu, press right, go to the Copy button, press right, select "All" if you want to copy all otherwise go to "Select" to copy single pictures. Press OK when you want to copy.

Q: How do I switch between the xD and the CF cards when transferring the images from the camera?

A: The camera uses the card that was selected when it was connected to the USB port. To switch card, you must 1) prepare your computer to safely disconnect the USB drive (camera). 2) pull the USB cable from the camera, 3) press once at the CF/xD button to select the other card, 4) reconnect the camera.

Q: How do I tell what firmware version I have?

A: One way of doing it is to open a picture in a text editor such as Notepad, and search for the string "v756". The number of the firmware version follows right after that; for example, v756-81 means you have version 81. A second method is, when viewing an unedited image in Windows XP, right click on on the image, then click on properties, then metadata, and it should be listed. A third method is to run the firmware update utility but do not update and it will tell your your firmware version in the camera.

Q: How do I use a polarizing filter to best effect?

A: The LCD normally compensates for the brightness of the scene which makes the effect hard to see. To see the effect on the LCD you must circumvent that compensation by locking the automatic exposure temporarily. You can do that in two ways, either by pressing the AEL button once or by keeping the shutter button 1/2-pressed. Now, while the exposure is locked, rotate the filter and observe the effect on the LCD screen, when you are satisfied with the effect you must press AEL again or release the 1/2 half pressed shutter button in order to re-activate the exposure meter (to get a correctly exposed picture). If your polarizing filter feature a little knob or a white dot, you can get maximal effect without looking at the LCD by rotating the filter until the knob/dot points towards the direction where the sun is on the sky (as good as you can). This is useful in sunny days when viewing the LCD is difficult.

Q: How high flash trigger voltage is the C5060 capable of handling?

A: Several independent Olympus' tech staff stated that it will survive 300 V trigger voltage. (See e.g., posts #9105, #19780, and #30782 in the Olympus 5060 users group.) However, one Olympus techie recommended to stay below 10 Volts (post #31361) and another said that "the voltage could not be concealed to the public". We have not had any high trigger voltage damages reported so far (July 2004). Note: a minimum of 6 Volts trigger voltage is also recommended by one Olympus representative.

Q: How to RESET my camera?

A: A "soft" reset to factory default shooting settings, but without changing date and file-numbering, is done either by simultaneously pressing the "self-timer" and "custom" buttons or by setting the "All Reset" to ON in SETUP in MODE MENU and then restarting the camera. There is also a "hard" reset which basically restarts the "firmware" (the program that runs the camera) and wipes out the on-board memory. NOTE: This reset is intended for technicians to use. This is done by: putting the camera in M mode, opening the memory door, turning the camera on and then hold the "OK" and "Quickview" buttons simultaneaously for 3 seconds. Select "Reset" in the menu that appears and press "OK". A similar reset is obtained by leaving the batteries out of the camera for a long time (12-24 hours).

Q: My camera gives out-of-focus images. What is wrong and how can I avoid it?

A: The camera is by default set iESP focussing which automatically selects what is most important to focus on. Often, the camera decides that a contrast-rich background is more important than the subject. Set the camera to "Spot-autofocus" by pressing the "OK"-button while holding down the "AF/macro/MF"- button and select "spot" with the selection wheel. That will make the camera to focus in the center of the scene. Another possibility is that you set the camera manually according to the distance gauge which isn't accurate at all.

Q: What is a lens tube?

A: A lens tube is the tube you attach to the camera body at the base of the lens; add-on lenses and filters can be attached onto the other end of the tube. For the C5060, which has a 48.5 mm tread on the body, Olympus provides the lens tube CLA-7 which features a bayonet coupling to the Olympus wide angle converter WCON-07C and the teleconverter TCON-17C. On the C5060, filters of size 40.5 mm are screwed directly onto the lens barrel.

Alternatively, you can get third party lens tubes from Raynox, Soligor or Tiffen with standard filter threads that accepts filters as well as third party auxillary lenses. More info is compiled in the document: 'Lens armour_adapter tubes.doc' in the 'Files' section of the Yahoo MyOlympus discussion group.

Q: What memory card is the fastest for my camera?

A: Generally a fast (faster than 17x) and large (256 Mbyte or larger) card of a good brand (like Lexar, Sandisk Ultra, Transcend, and Ridata) is recommended. At about 7x, the camera electronics becomes the bottleneck for the C5060. Please see the 5060 write speed survey.

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