Olympus C8080 WZ digital camera resource
Will you help me ?
I can't have my eyes everywhere and if you are aware of any information
specific to the Olympus 8080 which isn't yet available here, or if
you'd like to leave your own user report, you can send it to me here.
a notice in the message box below (leave name and email adress if
you'd like me to reply to you):
Note: if you have questions about the Olympus 8080, please put them in
8080 users group.
data and reference manuals
- Snaarman upgraded from the Olympus 8080 to the E400 and posted an
interesting comparison here.
- Sep. 14th: See the interesting
page of Gary Ayton with technical data about the 8080, information
about lens converters, external flashes, focusing issues, exposure,
batteries and memory cards. Also see Gary's resolution
test of the 8080.
- July 30th: see this interesting review
of the Olympus 8080 by Photography BLOG. It's not on the level of
Imaging Resource, Steve's Digicams and the other major sites,
but it interesting to read.
- Apr. 7th: Imaging Resource updated their review of
the Olympus 8080.
- Also see the Olympus
reviews page. These are reviews written by actual users of the
- Apr. 27th: The Norwegian Digit.no digital photography site just
posted their review
of the 8080 (in Norwegian), calling the 8080 "the most interesting
of the current crop of 8MP cameras".
- Apr. 17th: DCResource posted a full review
of the Olympus 8080, this time based on a production camera.
- Apr. 16th: Megapixel.net published their review of the Olympus 8080. They
give the 8080 8.6 points (out of 10) for functionality and 9.6 for
- Mar. 30th: Luminous
Landscapes test CA, noise, distortion and vignetting of the Olympus
- Mar. 30th: full
review of the Olympus 8080 now available at Steve's digicams.
Steve's conclusion is overall positive, although he doesn't discuss
- Mar. 24th: see this review
of the Olympus 8080 in Slovenian
- Mar. 21st: production
samples of the Olympus 8080 are now available at Steve's digicams
- there are no visible chromatic aberrations and noise is low
at ISO 50.
- The image at ISO 400 seems usable.
- The amount of detail in the images is good, despite the low
noise level. It appears that the noise reduction Olympus uses doesn't
flatten the detail.
- The outdoor photos taken with auto WB have a blue cast.
- Mar. 16th: Jeff Keller posted Olympus
8080 sample images on his DCResource site. Noise and chromatic
aberrations are low, but all images show some blueish cast and some are
overexposed (the church one for instance). A polariser flter would have
probably helped on that sunny day and the best results would have been
achieved if the images had been shot in RAW.
- Dcinside.com has a detailed review of the
Olympus 8080. It's written in Korean, but there are many
- See the press
release on the Olympus Europe site
- Luminous Landscapes published a short preview
of the 8080. Tha author complains that when you wear gloves you
have problems pressing the buttons of the camera.
- See Steve's Digicams preview
of the Olympus 8080 (preproduction model, no sample photos yet)
- To compare the resolution of the 8080 lens with the one of the
Olympus E300 I used the following test (images supplied as RAW by Moshe
Ronen; test target developed by Jens Birch):
- The test pattern consists of sets of five squares with
horizontal, vertical and diagonal lines. Each square (1..5) has lines a
different spatial resolutions, where 1 is the lowest and 5 the highest
- In the test I check in which squares the lines are still visible
individually (beyond the resolution limit the lines start to merge).
||Test target only covers approx.
80% of the image
- As you can see the 8080 beats both kit lenses of the E300 (14-45
and 40-150). If it is true that the 14-54 E300 lens does not have more
resolution than the 14-45 lens, it means that the lens of the 8080 also
beats the 14-54 "pro" Zuiko lens.
ISO test: ISO 50
vs. ISO 200
- Two images, both shot in RAW, both handheld at 1/20s and F2.4.
One underexposed at ISO 50, the other properly exposed at ISO 200. The
(originally dark), underexposed ISO 50 image has been heavily
brightened up in post-processing to make it as bright as the ISO 200
- Both images were converted from RAW to JPEG with the same noise
- In theory both images should have the same noise levels. However
surprisingly the underexposed ISO 50 one is considerably less noisy
than the ISO 200 one.
- By the way, the above shots are both 100% crops.
RAW file format
- The 8080 generates 11.4 MB RAW files.
- To convert 8080 RAW files to JPEG either use the Camedia software
which came with the camera or the much better Adobe Photoshop
converter. Version 2.2 now supports the Olympus 8080 RAW file format.
The plugin, which will work with Photoshop 8 (CS), can be downloaded
- Give a try to Silkypix's
Developer Studio RAW converter.
Not free, but it is getting very good feedback from those who are using
it. It seems to be THE raw converter with virtually any control you can
imagine. Some feedback from Jerry Beggs:
- "I have tried the Silkypics raw
converter - it is the best I've found and importantly, it runs on old
pc's; I use Windows ME on a PIII 800 processor with 256mb RAM. It
works perfectly and is fast enough. Many of the new RAW
like Pixmantecs Rawshooter Essentials and Phase One's Capture will not
run on less than 500mb RAM and Windows XP. "
- Another Free program that can view RAW is Picasa2 available from www.picasa.com
- Another RAW converter is Phase One's Capture One LE which allows
the file as a 16-bit TIF. This allows saving the full range and tuning
a high contrast image in CS preserving detail at both ends of the image.
- Give a try to the RAW converter
from Pixmantec (RawShooter Essentials - free so far), which has
received very positive reviews.
Which memory card to use with the
Olympus 8080 ?
- For your information: I can confirm that the 8080 takes 8GB CF
- Update June 17th, 2006: even a firmware
update to the latest firmware does not speed up the 8080. The 8080
still tops out at painfully slow 0.95MB/s.
- See here for an official
compatibility chart from Olympus showing which memory cards are
compatible with the 8080.
- See here for CompactFlash
and Microdrive compatible with C-8080 Wide Zoom. This table shows
which CF card types have been tested for compatibility with the 8080.
Note: of course there are lots of CF card brands and types which are
compatible with the 8080 and are not listed there.
- August 12th: see the results of a memory
card write speed test. Here
are the conclusions:
- It appears that the 8080 writes
with a maximum of 0.9 MByte/s
(sustained) to CF cards.
- There is no advantage in using CF
cards faster than 30x (actually
the camera is write-limited to 6x, but we didn't test the write speed
with slow CF cards).
- The maximum write speed to xD cards
is 0.8 MByte/s (sustained) .
Since xD cards are more expensive than CF cards, the only reason to use
xD cards is if you want to use the 8080's inbuilt panorama function.
- These write speeds are painfully
low. The Olympus 5050 for
instance is capable of writing at 2.5MByte/s (sustained) to fast CF
cards and manages to write a RAW image to CF in about 3 seconds. The
8080 needs at least 12 seconds to write a RAW image to a memory card.
- The 8080 takes xD and CF memory cards, even in sizes
2GB because the camera supports FAT32.
- The write speed of xD cards in the 8080 is disappointing - 13
seconds to write a RAW file to an xD card.
- Generally speaking CF (CompactFlash) cards are cheaper than xD
cards. Fast CF cards are also faster than xD cards in the Olympus 8080,
so the only reason to use xD cards is if you want to use the camera's
panorama function (note however that you can shoot panos by setting the
camera into manual mode and locking the white balance, or setting the
camera into manual mode and shooting RAW).
- So, unless you want to use the Olympus 8080 panorama function,
the question becomes: which CF card to use ?
- Well, the 8080 limits the read/write speed to 0.9 MByte/s -
that corresponds to a 6x speed (1x is 150 KByte/s).
- This means that even a cheap 12x CF card is perfectly adequate
and very fast CF cards are not necessary, as the camera is the limiting
factor. In other words, if you buy an expensive 65x CF card for usage
with the 8080 you are wasting your money.
- Here are some instructions
on how to update the firmware.
- The latest firmware available for the Olympus 8080 is v757-78
(note: to get this firmware send your camera to Olympus). Here is an
overview of the changes between firmware versions:
- 757-74 to 757-75
The update corrects the following errors:
1. Turn PW-ON and as Auto-PW-Off after leaving it for four hrs., dark
current becomes 3mA (Cause of battery drain )
2. Wrong focal distance (in 35mm film equiv.) is recorded in the EXIF
- 757-75 to 757-76
The update corrects the following errors:
1. The stray light is exposed when it exposes for 40 seconds with BULB,
NOISE REDUCTION OFF and ISO400.
- 757-76 to 757-77
The update corrects the following errors:
1. When the external flash is used, the flash charging indicator is not
on after the flash firing.
2. Using the card which has block failure may cause a camera hang-up.
3. Pixel Mapping does not function well.
4. When the camera is used in SDK mode, the Camera Control cannot be
- 757-77 to 757-78
The update corrects the following errors:
1. When the lens of camera with FL-50 is set to wide side, zoom values
below 35mm are not displayed.
2. The minimum aperture of RAW data is not correctly indicated in any
- July 27th, 2004: Olympus released a firmware update for the
Olympus 8080. The firmware can be downloaded here.
- The firmware update fixes these two bugs:
- By taking certain type of route
camera operation, malfunction of AF or the camera not accepting any
button operation occurs.
- In Exif Viewer, CAMEDIA
Master and OLYMPUS Studio software, information of the focal length
(Exif-information) in 35mm photography appears to be incorrect.
- but doesn't add new features or better performance (no buffered
write yet for RAW images for instance).
- This firmware update (July 27th, 2004) is only needed for
with firmware v757-74 or older.
- To install the firmware follow the procedure described at the Olympus
Comments ? Put them in the Olympus
8080 user group
- Here is a depth of
- See this
page by Gary Ayton, which explains the different autofocus methods
for digital cameras and gives tips on how to get the camera to focus
Noise test: the
Olympus 8080 vs the Olympus 5050
Note: for this test I compared the
noise levels in the RAW images
of both cameras. The final JPEG image of
the 8080 will probably be less noisy due to the more sophisticated
noise reduction firmware of the 8080.
It appears that the CCD of the 8080
is a bit more noisy than that of the 5050.
More specifically at ISO 64 the 5050
has the same noise level as the
8080 at ISO 50. At ISO 100 the 5050 has the noise level of the 8080 at
ISO 80 (actually a bit lower than that), at ISO 200 the 5050 has the
same noise level as the 8080 at ISO 125 and at ISO 400 the 5050 has the
same noise level as the 8080 at ISO 250.
The complete test results are available here.
What does this mean ? Well, if you
only JPEG or TIFF you might ignore the results, because the 8080
applies more advanced noise reduction than the 5050, although some
detail gets lost as a result of this.
If you however shoot primarily RAW, it
basically means that you have to
use the 8080 at lower ISOs and therefore the 8080 is less sensitive to
light than the 5050. Since the 5050 also has a more bright lens, it is
much more suitable for low light handheld photography than the 8080 -
in a specific situation the 5050 will need only half the exposure time
of the 8080 (or even less, depending on zoom levels).
aberrations / Purple fringing
- To remove chromatic aberrations you can process the RAW image
with the Adobe Photohop RAW plugin.
- To remove chromatic aberrations with
an image editor (desaturation of the magentas):
- It is very simple to remove chromatic
aberrations from an image. Simply use a photo editor and set the
level of magenta (also green where this makes sense) to the minimum. In
some images you might have to set the saturation level of red to the
It might also make sense to limit the processing to the affected area
select the affected image area and only process that).
- Also see "How to deal with chromatic
aberrations" by Philipp Sanke. Philipp describes a number of ways
to avoid or remove chromatic aberrations.
filter and other filters
- under construction
- The thread size for the filters is 58 mm.
- A polariser filter helps to obtain deep
blue skies and to remove unwanted reflections. Consider the following
(both images taken with the polariser filter):
Perhentian island image
Same image with polariser rotated
by 90 degrees
- See the difference ? In the picture
to the right, the polariser filter substantially reduced the amount of
light reflected by the water surface making the sea ground more visible
and made the sky more dark.
- Polariser filters are also useful when
the lower part of the image is dark and the top (the sky) too bright.
- Have a look at Darwin
Wigget's page on filters for further information on polariser,
blue-yellow polariser, graduated neutral density and other filters
- See also Jeremy
McCreary's page on filters
- Raynox now offers an adapter tube, the RT5267CT,
which screws directly onto the body of the 8080, and which can be used
to connect auxiliary lenses. Some photos and a description are
Not sure if you can also connect a filter.
- Soligor will offer a 62mm
adapter tube (Article Nr. 57955) to which auxiliary lenses can be
attached. Not sure if you can also connect a filter.
- Some photo of accessories for the Olympus 8080 are available here:
Digital Accessories compatibility page: lists all accessories and
if they are compatible with the 8080.
- The Power Battery Holder B-HLD30 can hold one or two BLM-1
batteries and has a portrait grip, a shutter release button (with lock)
and a zoom control lever. The B-HLD30 holder can store an additional xD
memory card. In addition to powering the 8080, the B-HLD30 provides a
more secure grip when using heavy auxiliary lenses and external
Comments ? Put them in the Olympus
8080 user group
BLM-1 battery and cheaper 3rd party alternatives
- See this
which contains an overview of currently available BLM-1 battery clones:
Olympus BLM-1 (original), PS-BLM1 (7DayShop.com), WT-BLM1
(SterlingTek.com), Energizer OM-1, Hahnel HL-M1, UNiROSS VB104295,
WinTop PS-BLM1 and e-Film (Delkin) BLM1. The author rates the batteries
according to construction, capacity, (low voltage) protection and cost.
It appears that not all 3rd party alternatives are created equal.
- Nov 11, 04: Test added which shows which
capacity the original Olympus BLM-1 battery and cheap 3rd party
alternatives have. With the batteries I had (one original and two 3rd
party ones) I measured the following:
- Original Olympus battery: 1299 mAh
- 3rd party battery 1: 1077
- 3rd party battery 2: 744
- This is OK, since
the Olympus original BLM-1 battery costs 17 times more than the 3rd party
alternatives I bought.
- The complete test results
are available here.
- The original BLM-1 battery from Olympus is very expensive,
selling at prices of 70 Euro upwards (a Dutch user even reported that
the BLM-1 costs 119 Euro in the Netherlands) - a multiple of what a
NiMH battery set costs. Since February 2004 cheap 3rd party
alternatives to the BLM-1 battery are available from a number of
sources (mainly sellers on ebay - do a search for "BLM-1" on ebay).
- The questions then are
- how good these cheaper alternatives are and
- whether they can they be used without problems in the Olympus
- The original BLM-1 battery from Olympus is rated at 7.2 Volt and
1500 mAh. The alternatives have voltages of 7.2 or 7.4 Volt and
capacities of 1300 or 1500 mAh.
- The voltage difference is no problem:
- The 7.2 Volt which Olympus officially quotes varies in reality
between 6.7 Volt (discharged battery) and 7.7 Volt (fully charged
battery). These are voltages measured under a pretty heavy load of over
1 Ampere (battery loaded with a 6.8 Ohm resistor).
- With no load the measured voltages become 7.37 Volt in a
discharged state (emtpy battery screen showing) and 8.2 Volt (battery
=> In other words, it's highly
irrelevant if the battery is rated at 7.2 or 7.4 Volt - the camera can
withstand 7.7 Volts without problems.
- The capacity difference is also something not to worry about.
There is no big difference between 1500 and 1300 mAh (we are talking of
a 10% difference), but the 3rd party battery costs a fraction of the
- Personally I bought two 3rd party BLM-1 batteries in August 2004
from a Hong Kong eBay seller.
- Price per battery was US $ 5.49 and the total cost including
shipping was US $17.
- The batteries arrived in 10 days to my home in Germany.
- I tested one of these cheap "counterfeit" batteries. It lasted
for over 600 shots (SHQ, all with the LCD on, about 10% with flash) and
still had juice left when I got tired and interrupted the test. It just
fast battery charger (this has been reported by Rod in the Olympus 8080
- My results are the Oly charger took around 5 hours to get to a
full charge and the Vidpro about half that (which is what they
advertise). BUT, it could be the second battery I charged on the Vidpro
didn't need that much charging - what I did wasn't under very
controlled conditions re residual charge before recharging.
- The Vidpro (US $30) charger base is a little larger than the
Oly, and also has an AC to DC module (a little smaller than the Oly
unit itself) that plugs into the AC wall socket whereas the Oly unit
accepts AC directly with the supplied AC cord. Both the Oly &
Vidpro accept 100v-240v, but the big difference I like is that the
Vidpro has a 12v DC (vehicle, etc.) adapter allowing the batteries to
be charged in the field.
photography with the Olympus 8080
by Antara Scales
|Sunny day, f2.4, 2sec, ISO50,
hoya r72, tripod.
Photoshoped (levels, curves, channel mixer, usm, cropped to get rid of
vignette at wide angle. I'm using a 49mm filter from the UZi). It took
a bit of work.
- The Olympus 8080 is not too sensitive to infrared radiation (see
the above image which required a 2 seconds exposure at F2.4).
- The site Infrared
photography with your digital camera contains interesting
about infrared photography with Olympus cameras and an overview of
filters with their spectral characteristics.
- These sites contain useful information about infrared photography
with digital cameras:
Digital infrared photography - site devoted to digital infrared
photography with image galleries, information about filters and
equipment and links.
Infrared Photography page
- excellent information resource devoted to infrared photography with
Olympus cameras. Information about infrared filters, exposure settings,
focus, post-processing, sample images and links.
- Also see the Infrared
photography page of the Apogee magazine: this is an interesting
general introduction to infrared photography with digital cameras.
- Gary Ayton has a page dedicated to infrared
photography with the Olympus 8080.
- Jason Jones reported this:
Merkury Optics .45x AF high
definition digital lens with macro, bought off of eBay as a package
with camera. Vignetting at widest angle, I can supply a test photo as
an example. It screws on to the filter threads, probably not good for
offers the following lenses for the 8080:
- DCR-2020PRO 2.2X High Definition
telephoto Conversion Lens: this teleconverter extends the
telephoto range to 300mm (35mm equivalent). Only problem is that you
need to stop down the lens to F5.6, otherwise you get vignetting. Also,
Raynox states that the lens resolves 260 lines/mm at MTF 30% in the
centre - that means that the effective resolution goes down to 4MP (for
8MP you need a lens capable of resolving 370 lines/mm, i.e. 185 line
pairs/mm). Requires the RT5267CT
adapter tube (52-67mm).
- DCR-1540PRO 1.54X High Definition
telephoto Conversion Lens: this lens extends the telephoto
range to 215mm (35mm equivalent). This one suffers less from
vignetting, allowing you to use it at F3.5. The lens resolves 340
lines/mm at MTF 30% in the centre, quite close to the 370 lines/mm
needed for 8MP. Requires the RT5267CT
adapter tube (52-67mm).
- DCR-FE180PRO Fish-Eye(Full Frame) Lens:
magnification is 0.24x, meaning that you get a focal length of 6.7mm
(35mm equivalent). Zooming is limited to 1.5x (I guess otherwise the
lens barrel hits the fisheye lens. Raynox claims a resolving power of
480 lines/mm at MTF 30% in the centre - quite impressive. This lens
however suffers from heavy
vignetting. Requires the RT6267CW
adapter tube (62-67mm).
- Raynox also offers the DCR-1850PRO Pro-Telephoto Lens 1.85X
which suffers from low resolution (only 200 lines/mm at 30% MTF in the
centre) and the DCR-150
- May 17th: Wim Pollet emailed me with an update:
the 8080 since a couple of days now and the wcon08b probably can’t be
used without vignetting. When I hold the wcon08b against the 8080 lens
you have no vignetting. But the 8080 lens extends a couple of mm (I
think about 4mm) more when powered up/down than the wide position so
the adapter ckcpower is making can’t place the wcon08b completely
against the 8080 lens… I’m sure you’ll have dark corners/vignetting
with such adapter… I know now why the wcon08d is 80 g heavier… it has
to be bigger at the inner diameter, especially because I heard you can
zoom in a little bit (probably the space the lens needs to extend at
The use of the tcon14b looks
possible but I think it’s not very esthetical when it’s mounted on an
adapter because the inner diameter of the lens is less than the adapter
thread… The weight difference of the tcon14b and d is still strange…
- The WCON-08D 0.8x wide-angle converter lens reduces the focal
length by a factor of 0.8, giving you a 35mm equivalent focal length of
22.5mm at wide angle.
- The TCON-14D 1.4x teleconverter lens, increases the focal
by a factor of 1.4x, giving you a 35mm equivalent of 196mm at the tele
- Gary Ayton performed a lens
resolution test with the TCON-14D. His conclusion is that the
TCON-14D has a very good resolution which does not lower the overall
resolution of the 8080.
- The telephoto conversion lens TCON-14D ($240) and the
conversion lens WCON-08D ($220) require both a lens adapter tube ($45)
in order to be used.
- This was posted by Wim Pollet:
|Tom from http://www.ckcpower.com
is making an adapter for the C8080wz with a
standard lens thread instead of the special bayonet.
That means you can use
the E10/E20 tcon and wcon lenses instead of the new versions specially
made for the 8080. That means also that you can use filters in between
the adapter and the lens OR in front of the lens (but that's much more
expensive because of the large diameter).
Tom doesn't know what thread the adapter wil be (I hope 62mm like the
E10/E20), he will know that next week he says and he will have the
adapter within 3 weeks from now...
People who are considering buying the Oly bayonet adapter... take note
of this... It's better to use threaded lenses instead of bayonet lenses
specially made for one type of camera...
WCON-08B (E10/E20): 0.8x, 62mm inner, 105mm outer (108mm size), 340 g,
3 elements/3 groups
WCON-08D (C8080WZ): 0.8x, bayonet inner, no thread outer (but 108mm
size), 410 g, 3 elements/3 groups
TCON-14B (E10/E20): 1.45x, 62mm inner, 86mm outer (90 mm size), 475g, 5
TCON-14D (C8080WZ): 1.40x, bayonet inner, no thread outer (but 90mm
size), 430g, 5 elements/3 groups
The weight difference is a bit strange, the wcon is heavier in 8080
version and the tcon is heavier in the E10/E20 version... somebody
knows more about the differences? I'm curious how the quality compairs
- Here is how to shut of the pre-flash on my FL50 (reporteyd by
Brian from Denmark):
- Go into the flash menu, set the
flash to slave.
- All camera settings are still sent
to the flash, but the flash is naturally using its own sensor instead
- then no one is in time, to
even think about closing their eyes, before foto is taken.
- Normaly i'm also locking the
settings in camera to:
Zoom = Full wide = 28mm
Focus = Manuel = 2m
3,6 = In focus from 1,0- ~m
4,0 = In focus from 0,9- ~m
5,0 = In focus from 0,8- ~m
5,6 = In focus from 0,7- ~m
-depending on how close the object is from camera..
-So with flash and camera settings set to above, you got a really fast
- 12.04.04: somebody reported that he is using his Canon Speedlite
155A (which has a trigger voltage of 6.5V) on the hotshoe of his C-8080
with no apparent issues.
- See Michael Meissner's excellent page
Flash Support. It contains an overview of external flash units
can be used with the 8080 (as well as with other Olympus digital
- See here
for how to measure the trigger voltage of your flash.
- See this interesting thread on external
FL-40 or PROMASTER 5750 DX ?"
- See Jeremy
McCreary'page on external flash for Camedia cameras.
the Olympus 8080 with a computer
- Try these software
- Pine Tree Camera
Controller works with the 5050 (and possibly also with the 8080).
Follow these steps:
- Open the card door on the camera
- turn on (for instance in P mode)
- press OK/Menu button
and the Monitor button simultaneously (not the Quick View button) for a
- a menu
the LCD screen - put camera in to control mode.
- Close Media door, plug
in USB cable and fire up the software (the software won't work if the
is not in control mode).
- Cam2Com: see this information.
- Akond.net are developing a
software for camera control. It's not free, but you might give it a try.
- June 17th, 2006: Wim Pollet reported the following:
made contact with the Vosonic support center to ask why the xdrive
supports only the dslr series RAW files and not the Olympus C series. I
have the VP6210 model and can only see the raw thumbnails which are
pixelated/blocky and can't zoom in to check focus for instance.
asked me to send an .ORF raw file from my C8080wz, after some days they
reported the Xdrive will support the decoding of the RAW file from
firmware version 1.2.5 which is going to be released this month (June).
believe the Multimedia series VP6230/VP6210/VP6300/VP6310/VP8350/VP8360
all use the same firmware, they all have 1.2.4 right now...
it's interesting to put on your C8080wz resource page when the firmware
is released later this month...
- August 2003: I just bought a Vosonic
X's Drive 2. Without HD (I had one already) the price was below 100
Euro. This thing comes with a fast USB2 interface and will read
CF I and II, Memory sticks and SD/MMC cards. As far as I know this
storage device is currently the lowest cost device available. Quality
performance are good.
- Update 09.06.03: new portable storage
devices (do a Google search to find the manufacturers' sites):
- the Archos Multimedia Jukebox w/photo
attachment 20 gb - also plays mp3s. Costs more.
- SuperDigibin - includes ac charger /
car charger - 30 gb
- Disc Steno - burn cds from flash card
Vizor - burns cds
from flash cards, spans discs for large cards, playback on tv.
- Tripper - similar to digibin
- Flashtrax from smartdisk (not out yet)
- 2.5 inch lcd, plays mp3s, image playback on device, costs more.
DigiMagic: burns CDs directly from the memory card (but how do you
know that the burning process was successful? ...)
- When travelling I use a Toshiba subnotebook
(P1 133MHz with 64 MB RAM) to store, catalog and process the
There are also portable storage devices, but the advantage of the
is that all image processing (i.e. deleting bad ones, sorting them
can be done while travelling. That's especially relevant on long trips.
The disadvantage is that a subnotebook is bulkier and heavier than a
- Portable storage devices:
Wallet - a portable HD with a card reader with 3 - 20 GB capacity
- a portable HD with a card reader with up to 40 GB capacity
- same as Digital Wallet, ImageTank etc. but has a small colour LCD
to view the pictures - up to 20 GB capacity
Image Tank review has a comparison of these different
Comments ? Put them in the Olympus
8080 user group
- Nov. 16th, 2006: see the photos of Jan Messersmith
on Flickr: "All underwater
pictures were taken with the PT-023 housing and the normal camera
flash. I've heard complaints that the inbuilt flash was
useless. I think these pictures show that this is not true.
You just have to know the limitations and learn to work with them."
- April 27th, 2004: Olympus announced
a delay in the availability of the PT-023 underwater housing
and the PPO-05 housing (see below). The housing, which should have been
available from the beginning of April, has now been postponed due to
the late availability of parts.
- Olympus has released the PT-023
underwater housing for the Olympus C-8080 digital camera. They have
also released the PPO-05 underwater housing for the WCON-08D wide angle
converter lens (same page).
- The site Digideep.com
is an online directory for digital underwater photography.
- Interesting forum for underwater photography: DigitalDiver.net
- Convar's PC
Inspector Smart Recovery tool now supports JPEG, TIFF and RAW.
- highly recommended.
UPDATE SEPTEMBER 04: Convar's utility now can recover also 8080 RAW
images - for this just select "Olympus ORF (C5050)" as the file format
by Kurt Stege, is a free tool to recover deleted images from a memory
card. Recommended, although it involves more work than the tool of
- These software tools are not free, so since Convar's software is
available for free, there is no real need to use them:
- Check this site: Digital
Christian Grau has some software
tools to fix damaged memory cards. The software used to be free, now
also has a software tool (Photorescue) for repairing damaged memory
although it's not free.
is another tool. Price is $39.95.
- The picture files of the Olympus 8080
contain the complete exposure information (aperture, exposure time,
length, white balance and so on).
- This data is usually lost when you edit
the pictures; but some modern image editing software packages keep the
data intact when saving the processed intact.
- To read this data you can use these
by Ryuuji Yoshimoto. Haven't tried the software myself, but it looks
Image Viewer, by Michal Kowalski. This is the one I'm using.
from his homepage:
"EXIF viewer is a simple image
viewer application for photos taken with digital cameras. It's capable
of reading EXIF information embedded in photos as well as little
Because small thumbnail is already present in most photos displaying it
is really fast.
EXIF viewer can also provide
detailed information about photos (shutter speed, aperture, etc.) and
list them for comparison purposes.
EXIF viewer also displays image
histogram. It also features copying/moving and deleting of selected
Single photograph can be displayed in separate window or in a full
by Friedemann Schmidt. I'm using this one too. It can rewrite EXIF data
to images which lost it due to processing with a software package which
doesn't support EXIF. Quoting from his site:
"Exifer is a nearly free software
(you only should send me a postcard if you're using Exifer frequently)
with which you can manage the metadata (EXIF/IPTC) of pictures taken by
digital cameras. Because many image processing software destroys this
when saving such files, the idea was to create a backup of the metadata
before editing it in any software, and then, after that to restore it
into the processed file. With Exifer you can do this very easily. "
- Giuseppe calculated the position of the nodal point and built a
QTVR panorama head for the 8080. The nodal point is situated 56 mm in
front of the tripod mount (23mm to the left and 38mm up). See the
- Here is some feedback from Stephane Brouard:
"I just contacted Giuseppe. The 56mm on his drawing are 50 mm on my
camera. 56mm is exactly at the end of the removable ring, not at the
beginning of it (from the screw hole).
As I checked again before
sending this mail I found out that the 23mm is wrong also
I don't think the specs of the
- Some interesting links:
- Below are the steps necessary to connect the 8080 to a linux
computer (thanks to Tobias Reif):
||here are the
steps (I'm on Suse 9.0 ):
1. boot Suse
$ sudo tail
* use external
-> "USB" must be set to "PC" (not "PRINT")
* set playback
mode on cam
* make sure
camera is turned off
with USB cable
2. turn camera
* drive icon
appears on desktop: sda1
-> properties: device /dev/sda1 mounted at /media/sda1)
on it would mount the cam and open it in Konqueror
=> convenient thumbnail previews)
-f for USB stuff)
... or just
wait a moment
4. get the
$ mount | grep
$ mount /media/sda1
$ mount |
on /media/sda1 type vfat (rw,nosuid,nodev,sync,user=tobi)
$ cd /media/sda1/dcim/100olymp/
$ cp -i ./*
$ mv -i ./*
$ umount /media/sda1
$ mount |
turn cam off
- Brian Miller created a page about using
C-5050Zoom Digital Camera with Linux. Tons of detailed information
on how to interface a 5050 with Linux. This information probably also
holds for a 8080.
- The page Using
the Olympus Camedia C-3040 Zoom Digital Camera with Linux and USB
Micheal Schubart contains a description on how to download photos from
an Olympus 3040 to a computer running Linux with USB. The procedure
there should also apply to an Olympus 8080.
with the Olympus 8080
- Gary Ayton has an interesting
page dedicated to astrophotography with the 8080.
- Astrophotography users's group here
may be also a good source.
- And last but not least this
site has enough links and information to keep you plugged for
What follows is a list of FAQs (frequently asked questions) compiled by
Jens Birch, based on questions asked in the Olympus 8080
Q: Can I use a linear polarizer with my camera?
A: Yes. You can use either linear or circular polarizers. Circular ones
are needed for most autofocus SLR cameras (not the Olympus E-10 and
Q: How can I avoid the annoying beeping sound when turning ON by
A: Turn mode dial to GREEN ARROW...it works every time! You can also
use a sufficiently long lens tube (does not work for the 8080 without
Q: How can I obtain exposure times longer than 1/2 second or shorter
than 1/1000 second?
A: With the 8080, exposure times longer than 1/2s are available A, S
and M modes. 1/4000 second is available in all modes. Bulb is only
available in M mode.
Q:How can I speed up the time it takes for the camera to take the
picture after I press the shutter button?
A: There are many things you can do:
- You can be prepared beforehand by 1/2-pressing the shutter button
(and keeping it 1/2-pressed) while aiming at the subject before the
actual moment when you want to take the picture. The autofocus (AF) and
the aperture will be set and the camera will then take the picture with
no time lag when you press the last 1/2-way.
- Set the camera to manual focus (MF) at the subject distance you
intend to take the picture at. This is most easily done by aiming at an
object at the distance you want to use and 1/2-pressing the shutter
button. While keeping it 1/2-pressed, press the AF/Macro/MF button.
That fixes the focus at the desired distance and the camera is set to
MF. This will significantly reduce the shutter lag.
- Set the camera to manual exposure (M) which further reduces the
- When it is tricky to catch the moment, use Hi-drive sequential
shooting and start taking pictures just before you think the action
starts. Use the optical viewfinder in order to follow the action when
the camera's LCD is occupied while taking the pictures.
- Turn off the "REC-view in the "SETUP" tab in the "Mode Menu".
That will minimize the time that the just taken picture is displayed
and you will be ready for the next shot as soon as possible.
- Use fully charged batteries if you are using the on-board flash.
Otherwise it takes a long time to re-charge.
Q: How can I stop the camera from entering sleep mode after 3 minutes?
A: Plug in an external DC power unit or a battery pack. You can also
excercise the zoom a little now and then with the remote control.
Q: How do I copy between cards in the camera?
A: Change the Camera to Playback Mode, press OK, press right, go to the
Edit menu, press right, go to the Copy button, press right, select
"All" if you want to copy all otherwise go to "Select" to copy single
pictures. Press OK when you want to copy.
Q: How do I switch between the xD and the CF cards when transferring
the images from the camera?
A: The camera uses the card that was selected when it was connected to
the USB port. To switch card, you must 1) prepare your computer to
safely disconnect the USB drive (camera). 2) pull the USB cable from
the camera, 3) press once at the CF/xD button to select the other card,
4) reconnect the camera.
Q: How do I tell what firmware version I have?
A: One way of doing it is to open a picture in a text editor such as
Notepad, and search for the string "v757". The number of the firmware
version follows right after that; for example, v757-75 means you have
version 75. A second method is, when viewing an unedited image in
Windows XP, right click on on the image, then click on properties, then
metadata, and it should be listed. A third method is to run the
firmware update utility but do not update and it will tell your your
firmware version in the camera.
Q: How do I use a polarizing filter to best effect?
A: The LCD normally compensates for the brightness of the scene which
makes the effect hard to see. To see the effect on the LCD you must
circumvent that compensation by locking the automatic exposure
temporarily. You can do that in two ways, either by pressing the AEL
button once or by keeping the shutter button 1/2-pressed. Now, while
the exposure is locked, rotate the filter and observe the effect on the
LCD screen, when you are satisfied with the effect you must press AEL
again or release the 1/2 half pressed shutter button in order to
re-activate the exposure meter (to get a correctly exposed picture). If
your polarizing filter feature a little knob or a white dot, you can
get maximal effect without looking at the LCD by rotating the filter
until the knob/dot points towards the direction where the sun is on the
sky (as good as you can). This is useful in sunny days when viewing the
LCD is difficult.
Q: How high flash trigger voltage is the C8080 capable of handling?
A: Several independent Olympus' tech staff stated that they will
survive 300 V trigger voltage. (See e.g., posts #9105, #19780, and
#30782 in the Olympus
8080 users group.) However, one Olympus techie recommended to stay
below 10 Volts (post #31361) and another said that "the voltage could
not be concealed to the public". We have not had any high trigger
voltage damages reported so far (July 2004). Note: a minimum of 6 Volts
trigger voltage is also recommended by one Olympus representative.
Q: How to RESET my camera?
A: A "soft" reset to factory default shooting settings, but without
changing date and file-numbering, is done either by simultaneously
pressing the "self-timer" and "custom" buttons or by setting the "All
Reset" to ON in SETUP in MODE MENU and then restarting the camera.
There is also a "hard" reset which basically restarts the "firmware"
(the program that runs the camera) and wipes out the on-board memory.
NOTE: This reset is intended for technicians to use. This is done by:
putting the camera in M mode, opening the memory door, turning the
camera on and then hold the "OK" and "Quickview" buttons
simultaneaously for 3 seconds. Select "Reset" in the menu that appears
and press "OK" . For the C8080 it is done by opening the storage door
and pressing "OK" and "Monitor" buttons simultaneously. A similar reset
is obtained by leaving the batteries out of the camera for a long time
Q: My camera gives out-of-focus images. What is wrong and how can I
A: The camera is by default set iESP focussing which automatically
selects what is most important to focus on. Often, the camera decides
that a contrast-rich background is more important than the subject. Set
the camera to "Spot-autofocus" by pressing the "OK"-button while
holding down the "AF/macro/MF"- button and select "spot" with the
selection wheel. That will make the camera to focus in the center of
the scene. Another possibility is that you set the camera manually
according to the distance gauge which isn't accurate at all.
Q: What is a lens tube?
A: A lens tube is the tube you attach to the camera body at the base of
the lens; add-on lenses and filters can be attached onto the other end
of the tube. On the C8080, a 67 mm male tread on the body is available
for a lens tube. The Olympus tube is the CLA-8 which features a bayonet
coupling for Olympus original conversion lenses in the end. To access
the treads on the body, a factory mounted ring that occupies the
threads has to be removed. Note that filters of size 58 mm can be
screwed directly onto the lens barrel. Alternatively, you can get third
party lens tubes from Raynox, Soligor or Tiffen with standard filter
threads that accepts filters as well as third party auxillary lenses.
More info is compiled in the document: 'Lens armour_adapter tubes.doc'
in the 'Files' section of the Olympus 8080
Q: What memory card is the fastest for my camera?
A: Generally a fast (faster than 12x) and large (256 Mbyte or larger)
card of a good brand (like Lexar, Sandisk Ultra, Transcend, and Ridata)
is recommended. At about 7x the camera electronics becomes the
bottleneck for the Olympus 8080. Please see the Olympus
8080 write speed survey.
Q: When is it beneficial to use a polarizing filter on my camera?
A: If a polarizing filter is rotated to the correct angle, it will
reduce light reflections from wet surfaces, asphalt, glass etc. or
darken the blue sky but leaving the white clouds essentially bright.
You also use it to reduce haze and glare in misty or polluted air
conditions. You can use it all the time but it will steal about 1-2
f-stops of light and it will not have any noticeable effect in other
situations than the above mentioned.
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